2007-2018 Silverado 1500 Barricade Extreme HD Rear Bumper w/ LED Flood Lights Review & Install


Hey, guys, it’s Joe from AmericanTrucks. And today, we’re gonna be talking about the
Barricade Extreme HD rear bumper with LED flood lights, fitting all ’07 to ’18 Silverado
1500s. Now, this is gonna be a great option for you
if you’re looking for a cost-effective rear bumper that’s off-road capable and includes
some extras such as these awesome LED flood lights. So, what do we have going on here with the
Extreme HD? What is this thing made out of? What features is it gonna give you? And basically, how much is this gonna be better
than the factory rear bumper? Well, we’re gonna start at what this thing
is made out of, and that is 3-millimeter thick heavy duty steel plating, and in terms of
durability, that is going to be a huge upgrade over that factory rear bumper, and it’s gonna
be able to take the abuse that an off-road-capable rear bumper should be able to take. It’s also finished in that awesome black powder
coating, which is not just there to add to the looks. Albeit, if you were going for that blackout
look, this is gonna be a perfect match for you, it’s also there to serve as a layer of
protection, over that steel, from the elements. Now, one of the biggest features about the
Extreme HD are the included lights, these are two 5-watt 3-inch Cree LED flood lights,
they put out a nice, modern bright white color temperature, around 6000K, that’s gonna be
a bright white leaning very, very slightly toward the blue side. They have a polycarbonate lens up front and
an aluminum housing out the back, basically that comes together to make these IP67 waterproof-rated,
meaning they can withstand up to a meter of water for 30 minutes, and that is more abuse
than they should ever see on the rear bumper of your Silverado. Now, the best part about these guys right
here, they’re completely plug and play, you get a wiring harness in the kit, hooks up
right to the battery, there’s a switch included, as well as a relay and a fuse, there’s some
IP67-rated connectors to plug these into, and you’re pretty much off to the races. Just to run through the list here, these steps
on either side, that’s a factory feature, the Barricade integrates those very, very
nicely, you get a little bit of tread on there as well, so you get to keep that. If you plan on towing, this bumper is also
pitch-capable, so no matter what you have, that will fit on there. As far as the trailer plug goes, you also
get to keep that. There are two different brackets included
in the kit, one for ’07 to ’13 and one for ’14 to ’18. You also get to keep your proximity sensors,
you can see these four pre-drilled holes across the length of the rear bumper, you can transfer
those over and keep that feature as well. There are pre-drilled holes for a rear plate
right here, and there’s another one right there, and this kit even includes a brand
new plate light to make sure this is legal in all 50 states. Now, I do have two rather small gripes about
this rear bumper, these LED cube lights, they’re completely plug and play, no problem with
those guys, but it kind of defeats the purpose of this plate light right here, this is gonna
have to be hard-wired, and again, you’re gonna need to do that to make this street legal. Also, right above that, you can see there
is no lock for the spare tire, so if that is a worry to you, it’s probably a good idea
to stay away from this one. Now, pricing for this kit, that’s the bumper,
all the hardware you need to mount it up, the lights, the plug and play wiring harness,
both trailer plugs, all that stuff, we’re looking at about 750 bucks. And for the small gripes I do have with this
rear bumper, I have to say, that is a good price to pay, you really do get your money’s
worth if this is the sort of bumper that you’re looking for. Now, if you do like a look of this rear bumper,
Barricade even offers you a matching front bumper to tie the whole truck together, and
in fact, there’s another version of this available without LED lights, which will save you around
75 bucks. For the install here, I’m gonna give it a
solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Couple reasons for that, this bumper is heavy
to begin with, so you probably wanna have a buddy on hand as well as a case of beer
so he can help you out with this thing. That plate light is gonna have to be hard-wired,
so that’s another reason for the two out of three. And another concern here is, in order to get
the factory bumper off, you are gonna have to unbolt a couple bolts that hold the bed
to the frame of the truck, you don’t have to disconnect the bed completely, but a couple
of bolts do have to come out so we can push this up an inch and then slide the rear bumper
out, again, we’re gonna show you how that’s done in just a second. Now, with all that said, I think you can get
this done in between two to four hours if you come with the right tools. So, without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you’ll need, and how it’s done. Tools required for this install are going
to include an impact, U-joint, extension, socket set ranging from 22-mill all the way
down to 10-mill, wrench set from 10-mill all the way up to 21-mill, these Allen keys, which
do come in the kit, this is a 4-millimeter, this is a 5-millimeter, some electrical stuff
like zip ties, spade connectors, as well as a wire stripper, and I also used some Channellocks
just to crimp down the spade connector. So, before we do anything on this truck, one
thing I would highly recommend doing here, drop the spare tire out of the way, this is
gonna give you a lot more room to work underneath of your Silverado here, and that’s definitely
a must do before you touch any hardware on your truck. Now, another thing we’re gonna have to do
before we touch any hardware is, we’re gonna have to crawl underneath and disconnect some
of our electronics so this bumper can come off without pulling on any of the electrics. First thing we’re gonna disconnect, this is
basically a master plug, this is gonna go to both of the license plate lights. So, it’s easier to disconnect here than it
is to disconnect at the license plate lights, and what we’re gonna do is pull down on that
red tab there, and then you can push this in, and that should release the two, and you
can separate. Next up is gonna be the trailer plug. We’re just gonna pull on this gray tab, similar
to the other one, and then we can press in, and that’ll disconnect that. Next up here, like I said earlier, we’re gonna
have to disconnect the bed in order to get our bumper off. And in this shot, you can see it clearly,
it’s this lip right here is basically going to hit this piece of metal that goes all the
way across, and in order to get it past that, we’re gonna have to unbolt the bed and basically
lift up on this thing so that is going to clear. And what we’re gonna do here, take our 18-millimeter
socket and an extension, we’re just gonna come up through the frame and loosen up these
bolts. We’re gonna hit this one, and then this one
over here as well, then do the same thing on the other side. So, with the bed effectively disconnected
at the back two bolts only, we’re gonna come over to the side of our frame rail, this is
all the way at the rear, we’re gonna trade our extension for a U-joint. These two nuts right here are 18 millimeters,
we’re gonna remove those, over here is a 15, we’re gonna get that out of the way as well. With those nuts removed, you can pull out
this bolt plate, then swap over to the 15 for that last bolt. Now we’re gonna come over to the other side
and do the same thing. Next up, we can focus on this 21-millimeter
hardware here, we’re gonna loosen that up on both sides, and then we should be able
to crank up on the bed, and then pull our bumper straight off. Now, for this bolt over here, you will need
a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head still, as well as a 21-millimeter socket for
the nut. That is a little bit stuck right now, so what
we’re gonna do is we’re just gonna take the bolt out on this side. You can see our bumper is loose, however,
it is pushing on that thread. What I’m gonna do is, pull this back, push
up on that bolt, and you should be able to remove that as well. Now, the bumper isn’t gonna go anywhere, again,
it’s gonna get caught on that lip I showed you earlier. Until we push the bed up, we’re gonna have
to wait to take this off. So, we’re gonna hit the other side, lift the
bed up, clear that lip, and then remove the bumper. So, to lift the bed up, you can see I’m gonna
be using a pole jack here. Now, if you don’t have one of these, you’re
in a pinch, the way that I’ve done this before is you just lay on your back underneath the
truck, and you can basically leg press the bed up. That will give you enough clearance you need
to get this bumper out, because the way this sits right now is, if you pull on this thing,
you’re just gonna get stuck right there on both sides. So, what I’m gonna do is just apply very light
pressure on the jack, I put another one up front so we don’t tip this thing off the lift. You wanna make sure if your truck is jacked
up that it’s nice and secure. If you are gonna use a jack like this one,
if you’re going the leg press route, you should be just fine since the truck is on the ground. But the bed actually isn’t that heavy, so
what we’re gonna do, jack it up here just enough, less than an inch we’re probably gonna
need to get this bumper off, and then we can pull the thing off. So, now we have our factory bumper uninstalled,
we got a little bit of prep work to do on our new Barricade bumper before we drop this
on our truck in its place. Moving down the line here, over here we have
some trailer plugs, this one is specifically for the older generation of trucks. This guy is gonna be for the newer generation
of trucks, everything ’14 and newer, you use this one right here. We’re gonna skip those because, frankly, this
truck does not have a hitch on it, so there’s no point in us doing that anyways. Secondly, we have these guys right here, these
are for the proximity sensors. If you do have those, you transfer them over
from your factory bumper, if not, you’re going to install these plugs. We don’t have that option on our Silverado
either, so we’re going to stick with those, after that, we’ll move on to the LED light
cubes, and then we can go back to the truck. We’re gonna install this guy here, this is
gonna be the guide for our spare tire tube. So, let’s get started here. Again, we’re gonna start with these plugs,
and these are just going to install in the pre-drilled holes along the front end of the
rear bumper. Now, if you wanna lock these in, the kit does
include some bolts for you that you can put in these tabs right here, they’re optional
for the plugs, but if you are transferring over sensors, I would recommend installing
those. Before we drop our fog lights in, we are gonna
have to get these mounting brackets installed. Now, that is pretty easy, if I hold it up
like this, you can see one side has a notch cut out of it, you want that to face toward
the front of the light. So, we’re just gonna grab that and orient
it properly, and slide it in between the fins. Now, what I’m gonna do is, I’m gonna bring
that straight back, and the idea there is it’s gonna provide a little bit of a slide,
you can drop a nut in. And in theory, that fin is cut out to hold
that nut still. So, with that nut being held still, we could
come in from the side with the bolt and thread the two together. Now, once you have the thread started, you
can use the Allen key included in the kit to snug that up. We’re gonna do that for the other side of
the mounting bracket, and then we’re gonna do the same exact thing on the other light
as well. So, with the hardware in place, we can put
our mounting bracket where it needs to be, and that can go off to the side, for now,
we’re gonna do the same thing for this light as well. And again, you just wanna make sure that notch
is toward the front of the light, that’s gonna give you the range of motion you need. Then we can drop the nut down the fin, and
get the hardware started through the side of the light, and same thing goes for the
other side too. So, now we can go back to the bumper and install
this thing. And how we’re gonna do that is, we’re gonna
take this bolt that comes in the kit, and that’s just gonna push up through our bracket. Now, this bracket does have slots in it, and
that’s basically gonna hold the bolt head still so we don’t have to worry about getting
a wrench in there. Then we come in from the front, and what we’re
gonna do is basically feed in our plug and play connector, then we can line up that bolt
with one of these three slots here. You basically have three choices where you
wanna put this thing, but once you have that sorted out, you can come in here with the
lock washer and 13-millimeter nut and lock it in place. We’re gonna install the other side here by
doing the same exact thing. So, our new Barricade bumper is completely
built up here, and before we start to work on our truck, I figured now would be the perfect
time to set it down on the floor next to our old factory bumper and point out some of the
key differences between these two, and basically, what is gonna make this Barricade bumper so
much better than the factory one. Now, the first, and frankly, the biggest difference
between these two, it’s also the most obvious, it’s gonna come in the looks department, right? Obviously, we’re ditching that factory chrome
and plastic styling in exchange for some awesome, aggressive, more modern-looking black powder
coated steel. Now, that black powder coat looks awesome,
it’s gonna be a great match, again, for any blackout look, but again, it’s also gonna
provide a little bit of protection over top of that 3-millimeter thick steel, that’s gonna
be an upgrade in terms of durability for the rear of our truck as well. This metal, this chrome, it’s not really that
thick, it’s not going to be able to take the abuse like some heavy duty steel plate would,
so that’s an upgrade in terms of durability, for sure. In terms of features, this one is gonna be
a pretty obvious one as well. We’re adding some LED flood lights back here,
that’s gonna provide a nice little bit of utility. If you’re doing any work behind your truck,
let’s say, on the trail, or at the worksite, that’s gonna be a great feature, definitely
something you wanna have. That’s all well and good, but what I think
sets this Barricade bumper over the top is just how many features you get to keep from
that factory rear bumper. Just to run through the list here, if you
do have a hitch, that’ll transfer over just fine, as well as the trailer plug, again,
I touched on, you get both brackets depending on what generation Silverado you have, that
will work out just fine. If your truck is optioned with proximity sensors,
those will transfer over as well, you get to keep those steps on each side, they’re
gonna allow you easy access to the bed just like the factory rear bumper. And on top of that, this has some pre-drilled
holes for a plate and a brand new plate light. So, at this point our bumper is ready to go. Basically, what we’re gonna do now is head
back to the truck, we got a little bit of prep work to do over there, as well as this
spare tire access tube, we’re gonna put that in place so we can install this later. So, let’s head back to the truck and get that
done so we can get this thing mated up. As far as this guy goes, we’re just gonna
slide that on like so, we’re gonna leave that sit there until later just because it’s easier
to put that onto the bumper once the bumper is installed to the truck. Now, that brings us to the more important
portion here, that’s gonna be our mounting bracket, you wanna make sure you grab the
right one. You can see this one is marked with a “P”
for passenger side, and that is basically gonna sit in the frame rail, just like so. So, in order to attach this with the first
bolt, which is gonna be the smallest, you wanna come all the way up to this top position,
that’s gonna take the 16-millimeter bolt head. Then on the other side here, we’re going to
install our flat washer, as well as a 17-millimeter nut. For the second bolt here, basically, what
we’re gonna do is come to this position right here, this is gonna be the medium-sized bolt,
that is going to be an 18-millimeter bolt head, and it’s going to install on the other
side with a 19-millimeter nut. For the third bolt, we’re gonna come to this
lowest position here, this is gonna be the biggest of the three, that’s gonna be a 21-millimeter
bolt head, and on this side, a 22-millimeter nut. We’re gonna tighten all that down, and then
we’re gonna do the same thing for the other side too. Now, before we mount this up, again, all the
hardware on here is slotted, so if you need adjustment on those brackets, you could loosen
them up later on, make any adjustment, and then tighten them back down. Now, with this vaguely lined up, all you’re
gonna do is hold the bumper up to those brackets, you get the bolt started through, and then
just finger-tight, then we’re gonna crawl underneath and install the rest of our hardware
and tighten it all down. Underneath of our truck, you can see the two
bolts that I just installed, basically, align your bumper, then you can tighten these down
with a 21-millimeter wrench and 22-millimeter socket. So, next we’re gonna tighten the bed back
down. In hindsight, you should do this before you
install these brackets, because Barricade doesn’t cut this part out of it. If you do wait until the end and forget about
it, like I did, what you’re gonna have to do is just use a ratchet to get around that. Now, we’re gonna tighten back down the bed. And if you look closely, you can see we lost
the cutout here, to get through with the extension, the Barricade brackets don’t have that. So, what we’re gonna do instead, you can see
I already have the bolt started up here, and we’re just gonna finish that off with a ratchet
and 18-millimeter socket. The positions further toward the front of
the truck though, they’re not impeded, you can still go right through the frame rail
with a bolt and a socket to get those in place. Now, we’re gonna do the same exact thing for
the other side. So, next up, we’re gonna do our spare tire
guide tube, and the way that’s gonna work is, we’re just gonna take these small button
head bolts that come in the kit, they look like that, and a flat washer. We’re just gonna poke that through, line it
up with the tube, then over here, just gonna tighten that down with a 10-millimeter nut
and another flat washer. This one over here on the outside, you can
get with the impact, but for this one on the inside, you’re gonna need a 10-millimeter
wrench. On the other side of this, for the button
head portion of the bolt, I’m just using a 4-millimeter Allen key that actually does
come in the kit with the bumper. So, now we’re gonna do some wiring, we’re
gonna start with our positive terminal here. First off, we’re gonna loosen up that 10-millimeter
bolt, and slide on our positive contact. Once we have that in place, we can tighten
that back down, and do the same thing for negative. So, next up, we’re gonna mount up our relay,
and you can probably guess by what I have in my hand, there’s really not a great spot
to hard mount this that, that’s okay, we’re gonna zip tie it. This mounting tab right here looks like a
ground, but it’s really not, so you can put this anywhere you want, and where we’re gonna
go, is on the underside of this lip right here, and we can tuck the rest of that slack
down next to the battery. Two things left for us to do, the first thing
we’re gonna do, is handle these plug and play connectors right here, these are nice and
waterproof, but they are not heat proof. So, we’re just gonna route these down the
engine bay, underneath of the truck, and we’re gonna make sure to keep these away from any
hot or moving components. Secondly, we’re gonna take care of our switch. Now, this can be tricky to get into the cab
of your truck, but the easiest spot I found is right here, this big rubber grommet. If you push that in, it should make a hole
big enough for you to slide the switch through, and then you can push this back out to reinstall
it and seal the cab of your truck. Now, once you have that started, you can come
over to the other side, and that should pull right out of the driver’s footwell. And you can mount this guy up wherever you
want, its got that adhesive back on there, so we’re just gonna pull off that sticker. One thing you do wanna make sure of, this
wire stays away from any of the pedals, and then you can press that in place wherever
you want. Now, we’re just gonna feed all those wires
underneath of the truck, and once we get back here, you can plug in the waterproof connectors. We’re gonna do the same thing for the other
side, and then the kit includes a bunch of zip ties for you to wire manage this whole
thing. Again, good rule of thumb here, you wanna
make sure you avoid any hot or moving components with the wires. Now, one thing left, and in order to make
this thing street legal, you have to install this license plate light. Now, it’s gonna come with bare pigtails on
the end, just like this, you can see that there’s already a little bit of wire stripped
back. You can basically do whatever you want with
this thing, you can hard wire it in. In our case, we’re gonna use these plug and
play spade connectors. You can vampire clip these in if you want,
this is really up to you, however you wanna wire this, whatever you wanna wire it into,
but you wanna make sure that this turns on when your truck turns on in order to make
it street legal. So, you wanna make sure that there’s a little
bit of copper exposed there, and I’m just gonna slide on our spade connector. Now, I don’t have a wire crimper, so what
I’m gonna do is just crimp it down with a Channellock, one more extra squeeze, gonna
give that a pull to make sure it’s nice and tight. And that is not going anywhere, we’re gonna
do the same thing for the black wire as well. So, now we’re gonna go over to our truck,
and we already have the female side all connected up to that master plug that we disconnected
earlier. Now, I can’t speak to wiring, again, your
Silverado wire colors might be a little bit different, you just wanna make sure you’re
splicing into the right stuff in order to power this thing when it should be on. We’re just gonna feed the wires through this
lower hole in the bumper, then align our light, and snap it into place, like so, then underneath,
we’re just gonna plug in our spade connectors. Now, guys, that is gonna do it for me, it’s
also gonna do it for the Barricade Extreme HD rear bumper with LED flood lights, fitting
all ’07 to ’18 Silverado 1500s. Thank you, guys, for watching. Subscribe for more videos like this one, keep
it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Chevy.

5 thoughts on “2007-2018 Silverado 1500 Barricade Extreme HD Rear Bumper w/ LED Flood Lights Review & Install

  1. Shop this Barricade Extreme HD Rear Bumper: https://amtrucks.at/31GmPNm

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  2. that does give it a cleaner look. i do like the look of those flood light also.

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