Against the Current: Ohio & Tennessee Rivers | Sailing Soulianis – Ep. 29


– Oh, I think this is
where it’s gonna get worse. – [Lauren] Whoa! – [Lauren] Last time on Sailing Soulianis we took you on a
technicolor tour of Grafton, the town that sits at the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. We got to see the inner
workings of a towboat. – [Man] This is where the navigation of the vessel takes place. (boat horn blares) (group laughing) – [Lauren] And then we
jumped in our own boat to tackle the mighty
Mississippi ourselves. – If it gets much foggier though it’s gonna be pretty sketchy. – [Lauren] We made it. – [Kirk] There’s just one after another. (boat engine roaring) – You can hear the crickets. We’ve been kinda dreading
this part of the trip. – [Kirk] Yeah. – It hasn’t been that bad. – No, it’s sorta been the best part. – Yeah, it really has. (boat engine rumbling) – [Kirk] Alright, you’re
gonna start letting us out? Oh, this line is frozen. Okay, let us back. Alright, I’m free I’m pretty sure, yep. Oh, there’s a lot of mud. (line splashes in water) That’s thick stuff. Hey Lauren, should I bump you forward? (lever clicking) – [Kirk] Yeah, we need a wash down. (boat engine running) – [Lauren] This was the end of the Mississippi for us. From Lake Michigan until now,
it’s been all down river. But once we turn onto the
Ohio, we’ll be pushing upstream for 300 miles until the end of our route on the Tennessee River. – We’re about to start
pushing some serious water. We’re doing 8.3 right now. In about five minutes,
we’ll probably be doing two. Maybe three. – Alright, maybe four. (wind blowing) – [Kirk] We just crossed the line. – Bye Mississippi. – You’ve been nice. – Very very fast. – [Lauren] 4.4? – That’s our new speed. – Hell yeah. – Well, I think the current
is probably still gonna pick up because it’s still
swirling a little bit. – [Lauren] Yeah. This is the Olmstead Locks and Dam project, which was just
recently completed. It was built to replace locks 52 and 53 which were both barely hanging on. It took the Army Corps of
Engineers nearly 30 years to complete the Olmstead
project due to its complexity and funding that came in fits and starts. It’s the largest and most expensive inland waterway project
ever undertaken in the US It’s cost of $3 billion is
estimated to pay for itself after four years of operation. After leaving Boston bar
that morning, it was just 52 miles to the transient
dock in Paducah, Kentucky. But with the four to five knot current, we weren’t able to make it. Our hangup was Lock 52. We needed to be there before they closed at seven p.m. for them
to allow us passage. That night we anchored, literally,
on the side of the river in between several tows,
playing the same waiting game until the lock opened in the morning. – [Man On Radio] You know,
I’ve drove 22 of them since I’ve been a pilot. Maybe a couple more if
you count steersman. – [Lauren] When we weren’t
calling the lock operators on channels 13 and 14, our
radio was always set to 12, the channel the tow operators use as we often call them
while underway to ask on which side they
preferred us to pass them. – [Man On Radio] Yeah,
I mean, it’s something. But you always have different deck crew and different places and
different personalities and stuff. – [Lauren] After dropping the hook, our radio was still on when
a couple of tow operators decided to use 12 to catch up. – [Man On Radio] I kinda liked
it when I had the same people to work with all the time, too. That was kinda nice, too. – [Captain On Radio] Oh, yeah,
everybody knows everybody and you ain’t doin’ no
guessing ’bout what kind of stunt they gonna pull next
or why they didn’t do this. – [Lauren] We figured out the first guy was telling stories about his training to a more experienced captain. – [Captain On Radio] The
deck hands flowed in and out, you know, couple of them. But, same old (muffled speech), you know? Don’t get in that old comfort zone. – [Man On Radio] Yeah, I just
got off to Quinton Harris. I took, it outta the
shipyard, took 42 up on it. Then they got me on, they
didn’t let me take no big tows really on the lower anyway. – [Lauren] When steersman are training to become pilots, which is the
equivalent of a first mate, they’re allowed to pilot
northbound transits only because the tow is
running into the current, increasing controllability. Once proficient, they can
start southbound runs. – [Man On Radio] They’re
talking about turning me loose on the 25, 30 (muffled speech). – [Captain On Radio] Maybe
get posted up, you know, before they cut you loose
like they should anyway. – [Man On Radio] Yeah, I’ve
had a couple of trips postin’. But, I have a trip postin’
and I won’t post again for four or five months. – [Lauren] What’s posted mean? – [Kirk] You should just jump in. Hey guys, what’s posted mean? (Lauren laughs) (waves splashing) – That one wasn’t actually too bad. The Olmstead.
– Ohio River this morning. – Oh, I think this is
where it’s gonna get worse. (Lauren laughs) Yeah, this is where it’s gonna get worse. – [Lauren] Damn, look at that wave. The closer we got to Lock and Dam 52, the stronger the current got. This was due to the dams
forcing the water through a more narrow section of river. What’s our speed over ground? – [Kirk] 1.7 (lighthearted acoustic music) – [Lauren] Our speed
over ground kept climbing and in a few miles, we’d made it. We had completed our
trip on the Ohio River. (lighthearted acoustic music) ♪ All we really want is a change of pace ♪ ♪ So keep walkin’ ♪ ♪ Don’t speak softly ♪ Okay, back up there for just a second. A lot of things just happened
that were hard to see. At 57 feet, this was our tallest lock yet. It was also our first
lock heading up river. So, instead of being gently lowered down, the water boiled up all around us. It turned out to be our
worst lock experience. It was incredibly turbulent near the end and even with fenders out, we struggled to keep the boat from bashing the wall. It got so bad, the lock master called us on the radio to see if we were okay. We pushed with everything we had, and as you saw, we made it out okay. We learned then, going up a lock is very different from going down. – [Kirk] We pulled into
Kentucky Dam Marina to fuel up and stuck around
to use their courtesy car to get groceries and
some additional plumbing bits and bobs from the hardware store. This was our largest fill-up yet. The last marina we filled up at was 227 miles back on the Mississippi. We keep a detailed log of engine hours. So, knowing that it
took 34 hours for us to motor those 227 miles means we averaged just under three quarters
of a gallon per hour. (“Sweet Home Alabama” by Lynard Skynard) – [Lauren] What’d ya find? – Something living in our water hose. This was the hose coming from our port-side water tank. The previous owners didn’t live aboard, so they only ever used the starboard tank. Whole lot of good stuff in there. – [Lauren] Oh, gosh. – [Kirk] It needs to go outside, though. With the rest of the moldy, moldy oldies. Replacing this plumbing was one of the dozens of things on our to-do
list that we didn’t get to before leaving the dock in Wisconsin. – [Lauren] Looks like
The Princess and the Pea is sleeping back there. (boat engine running) – So, we just spent two nights
at the Kentucky Dam Marina. I got myself a haircut. We fueled up, we groceried up. Uh, we did not clean the boat up. But, we cleaned ourselves up. Showered, shaved, all that good stuff. And now we are headed across
– Hi. the glassy, flat, calm Kentucky Lake over to, what’s the name of the marina? – Lighthouse Landing Marina. – Lighthouse Landing Marina. – Yeah, I think it’s a sailboat paradise. I’m not sure.
– Oh, yeah? – It’s beautiful out right now, though. – Yeah. The forecast for the next two days wasn’t as pretty. So, we figured we’d hole up in a slip and crank out some computer work. We decided to leave Kentucky Dam Marina for Lighthouse Landing
for a change of scenery and also their cheaper
rate, 75 cents a foot. (boat halyards clanging) – We’ve got a straight
up wind chime going here. Nobody knows how to secure
their halyards, apparently. We are quite possibly the
only boat in this marina not making a noise right now. Oh, man. (upbeat acoustic music) – [Lauren] After the muddy Mississippi and Ohio rivers, Soulianis
really needed a bath. Not too bad. – I am quite hot now. – [Lauren] That’s one
way to get a workout in. Kirk so kindly took on the task while I was out for a run. Did you get all the dock lines up? – I did. – [Lauren] Do you need some help? Usually, we’re both on deck for departure, but sometimes he’ll prep the boat by himself while I’m still
editing in the cabin. You don’t need any help. – Okay. – [Lauren] Just with
that haircut of yours. (happy acoustic music) ♪ So, I flew on boots
of leather from Murcia ♪ ♪ To the place where they
had said they saw you last ♪ That was directly in the sun, huh? – Aye. – Wohoo. So. Where are we headed, love? – We don’t know yet. South
(Lauren chuckles) – There’s about two dozen bays that cut into the state park here, in between, it’s called Land Between the Lakes. And we’re gonna go pick one
for tonight’s anchorage. ♪ And from where I clung all I could see ♪ ♪ Was swallowed by the sound
of you in the cherry tree. ♪ – [Kirk] We poked our nose into one bay but we weren’t really comfortable
with the swinging room. – [Lauren] Nevermind, sorry No-Name Creek. Whoa! – Well, shoot, now we’re
gonna get there at 5:47. – [Lauren] Really? – [Kirk] Yeah. – [Lauren] Are you sure? (coyotes howling in the distance) – [Kirk] They’re going like crazy again. – The next morning, we continued on South down the 184 mile long Kentucky Lake to Paris Landing State Park where we saw the familiar
lines of another Tartan 37. This is the first sister ship I really got to inspect in person. It was really interesting to
see all of the differences in the rigging and the way
that the boat was set up. Without much notice, Kentucky Lake bled right into the Tennessee River. This would have been really difficult to do late at night. (boat engine running) That night, we had a little time to finish the plumbing on the water tank. – [Lauren] What ya got going on here? – I’m heating up the hose
to make it more pliable so it’ll fit smoothly over the nipple and so it’ll bend nicer. I’m gonna put it on. (music playing on radio) Cool. – [Lauren] Whatcha doing, love? – [Kirk] Bending metal. (playfully grunts) (chuckles) – [Lauren] One of the softest metals. (laughs) – You wanna bend this? (laughs) Okay, ready? – Ready. – You’ll put your thumb over it. One, two, three. – [Lauren] I don’t think it’s leaking. (water bubbling) (water running) – It’s working. (Lauren laughs) – [Lauren] We got more water. Well, too bad water is clear because that’s not very exciting. (Kirk laughs) – Not cool. Not cool at all. – Au contraire, it is so cool. Sorry, that was really bad. (Kirk chuckles) It’s actually not cool. It’s really really freakin’ cold. Where did you get that? – This is off of our deck. (both laugh) (acoustic music) ♪ I can’t catch a break ♪ ♪ Because it seems that it would take ♪ ♪ Some love ♪ – [Kirk] It’s very
pretty this morning, huh? – Very pretty, it makes
the cold not feel as cold.

100 thoughts on “Against the Current: Ohio & Tennessee Rivers | Sailing Soulianis – Ep. 29

  1. Just a quick tip which might help or not…I work in a high tidal range area ( 2nd highest tides in the world) and when I’m using the Lockgates in our workboats we haven’t got anywhere to moor to so we just push the bows on the wall and run the engines ahead or just bob about in the locks… obviously you can’t do that in a sailing boat but I noticed you had sliding mooring posts in the lock..
    If you just run a forward spring from say a midships cleat and then run the engine ahead the boat will naturally want to drive herself into the wall and with you on the helm you can control the boat by slightly keeping her bow into the wall..
    Just make sure she’s well fenders up and that’s all you’ll need!
    Also by staying back in the lock your not right over the paddles or sluices so you’ll find the water is less aggressive further back!
    Another thing you’ll find is the current runs a lot less the closer you get to the shore which is where local knowledge comes in handy!
    Nice videos and lovely looking boat and you’ve got another subscriber?..

  2. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. Praying you have a safe and enjoyable journey:)) John 3:16….light from the Son….

  3. I live near light house. It seems to me that most owners are from the surrounding cities and are summer sailers.

  4. You know I had a thought watching this and that is you seem like a couple that would have no problem sailing the West coast regions of Alaska and British Columbia . I also think that if you had it to do over you would have left earlier and by way of the Atlantic to the Bahamas. Just impressions.

  5. An old sailors trick of heating the hose is good, but what is a better way to heat the hose is to submerse it into a pot of boiling water. You use a lot less energy than an open electric element and the hose heats from both the outside and inside. Also, it stay flexible a lot longer. Give it a try I think you'll find it works great! To really save energy do it while your making pasta for dinner…..LOL! wink! wink!

  6. How much extra fuel did you need to carry to get thru that upstream section? I am looking at doing the Great Loop in a couple of years and several Tartans a 34 through a T.O.C.K are on my short list for doing the trip on.

  7. Damn you are getting good with that Drone. Amazing video as always. Keeps getting better though.

  8. # Love your videos. Have watch at least 20 so far. Please fix the volume difference between the loud music and quiet speaking in all your videos. I have to keep turning up and down the volume throughout the video.

  9. Two vocabulary. 1) Frap a halyard to prevent noise. 2) .The plumbing fitting was a barb rather than a nipple. Love the videos. And hope my advice is correct.

  10. It would had been neat if you could had motored down the Cumberland to Nashville.

  11. Last time I watched anybody going this route was a gentlemen that left Michigan and traveled the route you guys are going, he took a twenty foot pontoon boat and turned it into a shanty boat with a 30 hp power engine, it was goofy looking but cool also, he went all the way to Panama City Beach, then sold that and bought a 25 foot sailboat and took it to the keys, his channel is called The Real Wayne's World, very cool channel to watch, your camera and editing work is excellent, when you get to Key West gives us a jingle, we are at City Marina, we have the only Dana 24 here, flying a Jimmy Buffett flag, can't miss us..

  12. Posting is making a trip through an area usually with an experienced captain to familiarize one's self

  13. Yay! Another video to brighten my day! I literally get so excited whenever I get the notification that you guys posted a new video. Keep up the fantastic work. Your channel is the only one I actually care about on youtube haha. This video is stunning, what with the ending drone shot of the mist over the water. Makes me feel like I'm in a dream. Absolutely beautiful. Those coyotes were crazy! How long did they howl?? Also, something I always think about when I'm watching your videos is, "It would be cool to video journal every detail of my adventures so that my kids could watch it a few decades later." A strange thought, I know, but have you ever considered that aspect? I wish the technology would have been there for my parents when they were younger.

    Keep rockin' the boat with these stellar videos. You are the cutest couple! It makes my heart smile.

    Best,
    just one of your 34,000 fans 🙂

  14. You guys really make fantastic images of your river experience and the fantastic fal season. So inspiring, Thank you!

  15. Love your aerial shots… what kind of drone are you using? How long did it take you to get comfortable flying it over water? Would love to get one to capture some video of us sailing, but my luck I'd lose it in the gulf the first time out! lol

  16. Maybe you've mentioned this in another video, but how do you heat your boat in this cold? Curious to find out!

  17. When you get to pine bluff Arkansas holler! I'll swim out and pirate you guys for the night.

  18. You all need to eat some burgers. Put some power behind your asses.

  19. Living near the Ohio river and doing something I always thought about, all I can say. Your a lucky man, your living the dream. I would be divorced in a New York second, no mall. The scenery is awesome thank you for sharing

  20. what a wonderful trip, the scenery just out of this world. i am wondering about the manual windlass, can you bring up the anchor w/o the windlas once freed from the bottom?

  21. Amazing videography and editing you two! Kirk, I cant quite figure out which one you love more…Your wife Lauren or your mistress Soulianis?

  22. Those drone shots were fricking cool! Again, thanks for sharing your journey with us and your amazing editing and storytelling.

  23. I appreciate that you make mistakes even when you've sailed a lot previously. Makes you normal.
    I also greatly appreciate the captions.

  24. Wow , first time I've seen your channel. Nice editing.
    Locks can be tricky, did them a lot on the canal system in England, you did well.
    I subscribed , going back to the beginning now 🙂

  25. You guys are doing the trip I plan to take in a couple years on my 22' pontoon. I though will be starting in Minneapolis. Patienty waiting for your next video. Stay safe and enjoy.

  26. Ok you guys are really growing into one of my favorite channels. You are so calm and fun. Zero negativity, beautiful camera work and footage. So cute too, like a great fit for each other. On your fuel consumption rates, since you just started going against the current,you know that is going to fall way off. (As I'm sure you well know by now). Can't wait till your next vlogs. Peace

  27. You must be absolutely dreaming of warm weather……..

  28. it amazes me sometimes that there are still beautiful place on the major US waterways. lovely.
    did you folks change your minds about going all the way down on the mighty Miss?

  29. Great job on the video!! Brrrr!!! it's cold!! I can't even imagine!! Everyday a little closer!! Peace, Love and Happiness!!

  30. Beautifully done video, your drone work gave me a nice perspective of when I would visit my parents at Kentucky Lake Marina. They had a 42 foot Hatteras for 20 year's.

  31. You need a couple push stick to use to keep off the walls of the locks. They would allow you to hold the rope and push at the same time.  I made a push stick from an old broken shovel handle.

  32. Welcome to Kentucky Lake. We keep our O'Day 23 at Paris landing marina and spend many nights in the many coves along the shores. It's a wonderful lake during the summer.

  33. Does Soulianis have a meaning?? Your videos are so beautiful and relaxing. Really therapeutic and peaceful. Thank you so much.

  34. Were the coyotes the only eventful thing while staying at the land between the lakes? No unusual howls? There's rumors of a werewolf out there that's why i ask.

  35. That was us at 13:40 in Smith Bay, we were headed to a campfire, wish you could have joined us. Deon & Roxy MV A Touch of Destiny.

  36. 20 dislikes? First time watching them, longtime watching others and this is a high class production.

  37. I'm really lovin watching you guys. Take it from a crusty though- pull you fenders inboard while underway lest you get confused for a stink potter.

  38. I made that same trip in 2009. Loved it. Left muscatine, iowa in october. Made it to the state of mississippi

  39. Hi, new to your channel, its awesome by the way. A quick question, where is your boat's mast and rigging? I'm sure it was explained in an earlier episode, but I haven't started the binge watch yet. LOL. ps – I live in Cincinnati, so it was nice to see a sailboat on the might Ohio. -C

  40. Hi, Nice video…But why did you buy a sailboat if you're not sailing? I don't see any mast or sails on it.

  41. Love the great camera work and editing, esp. love the drone footage on the mist rising Tenn. river. like the info about the areas through which you pass too. Great boat travel video!

  42. I live on Kentucky, right at pebble island marina in new johnsonville… I use to keep a boat there myself.. if you ever make the trip again please comment and I'll be happy to help you make your way down the river… there are better and cheaper places to stay along the river.. I'm very jealous by the way..

  43. Dit you just say the 3 billion dollar will pay for it self in 4 years ? that's aprox. 800 million a year, how many ships have to sail through this in a year… to get that 800 million ?

  44. Don't go to far in a lock, the water pressure of the Incoming water is to strong for a little yacht

  45. it's beautiful down that way. I own property right south of the road that goes through the land between the lakes and plan on retiring down there. That county is the poorest county in the state, but really nice. I have been in that marina you stayed at.

  46. Great videos but I couldn't watch this one because the sound was so off from the video. You probably already know but around 4:20 the sound is about 2min behind the video footage. Anyways, great stuff. I'll keep following either way!

  47. Great Drone work Guys. You have made even the River life look appealing..

  48. Great camera! Audio is off on this video though. Cool story! Something I would add to my bucket list If I could afford a big enough bucket.

  49. I had no idea there were so many locks along our rivers. Very interesting.

  50. READ THIS BEFORE YOU WATCH!! Make sure the video you're watching is 17:37 long. (If it's 19+ minutes, there will be audio issues about four minutes in — and we don't want that!) If you're seeing a 19+ minute video, try reloading in a private browser window, or even try a different browser application. Apologies for the issues!

  51. I was at home. I look out of my back door at the Ohio river about 4 miles upstream from the mouth of the Tennessee and 8 miles downstream from the mouth of the Cumberland. If you ever do that trip again go up the Cumberland. Less barge traffic.
    My father in law has a boat at lighthouse landing.
    Pisca bay is the best place to stay overnight.
    I am wanting a sailboat to do the great loop.

  52. That line wasn't frozen. You should check out the first episodes of RAN Sailing back in the winter of 2016. 🙂

  53. I dreamed of taking this exact same trip 25 years ago. I'm from the u.p. , Michigan. it looks like I'm not going to make it. thanks for having these videos.

  54. One of the first things I did to my Tartan was to replace all of the freshwater plumbing. It amazes me how many boaters ignore this issue. I add a couple of cap full of bleach every time I fill up. I don't drink from that supply but it's good for dishes etc.

  55. Great to see a whole new area most of the sailing videos on YouTube are on the ocean. Nice job!

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