Are Used EVs a Safe Bet; Best First Cars For Teens | Talking Cars with Consumer Reports #220

On this week’s
episode, we answer audience questions, including,
is topping off your tank with fuel harmful to your car? Is rust proofing still a thing? And why are some turn signals
red and others are yellow? Next on Talking Cars. Hi, everybody. Welcome to another episode. I’m Mike Monticello. I’m Mike Quincy. And I’m Jennifer Stockburger. Well, we’re doing it again. It’s another one of our
all questions episodes. This is where we
dig into our backlog of the wonderful questions
that you folks have sent to us and we try to get
through as many of them as we possibly can. For those of you that
are new to the show or maybe you’ve
forgotten the best place to send those questions,
comments, 30 second video clips is [email protected] So let’s get right
to it and let’s start with the video question. Let’s see what William
is asking us today. Hi, Talking Cars. This is William
from South Jersey. I was at the taping
off here 100th episode, and I have a question
because since then, I purchased this blue Mazda 3. And one thing that
I’ve noticed recently is the brakes are getting
down below five millimeters is the radar cruise is not reacting
to cars in front as quickly, and it’s making me
a little nervous. And my question is when
they replace the brakes, does the system automatically
recalibrate or do they have to do something
with the computer when they replace
the pad lining? Is that something that
modern systems account for? Do they account
for the lining left on the brakes and
their sensitivity? I look forward to hearing
back from you, thank you. So thanks for the
question, William. So keep in mind with an
adaptive cruise control system, the first thing it does, it
actually cuts the throttle. So when you know, when it
senses a car ahead of it, it’s going to cut the
throttle first, not necessarily hit the brakes. Now if a car were to
cut in front of him, then it would have
to hit the brakes. And there could
be an issue there if your brakes were really low. I mean, if you’re to the point
where the pads are grinding, squeaking, meaning you
really need a new brake pad. You can hear it. Yeah. Then maybe there could be
something related to the brakes then. But the way that the dash
of cruise control works it’s a sensor. So it’s sensing the cars. And again, so first
thing is throttle. So if he’s sensing
there’s something wrong with the system,
there could actually be something wrong
with the sensor. That’s the first thing. And also, his question
about, do they have to recalibrate
the system when you change your brake pads? And the reality
is you don’t have to recalibrate your brake pads. So basically, probably– maybe– he’s being a little
sensitive to what’s going on. Basically, probably, maybe. Well, since he didn’t
say exactly when it’s been sensitive. But the first thing
it’s going to do is cut the throttle
and that has nothing to do with the brake system. So anyway that’s what we
think is going on with that. Right. And ultimately, when
the brakes kick in, that’s automatic
emergency braking, exactly not necessarily
adaptive cruise control. And your brakes would have
to be literally almost gone to not give you a solid brake. Right. If you still five
millimeters of pad left, it should still be
working perfectly fine. So thank you for the question. Let’s dig into our
mailbag and let’s see what Anthony has to say. I recently bought a
new pair of headlights from a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. They work well but I’m not sure
I’m satisfied with the bulbs that they came with. Are more expensive powerful
bulbs worth the money? If so, are there any
you can recommend that aren’t too expensive? Well, how lucky
is Antony that we have Jen here, who happens
to run our headlight program. So Jen, what can
you say to Anthony? Right, so we have tested
aftermarket bulbs a couple of times, same results. It depends a little
bit, Anthony, what you’re dissatisfied with. If it’s the brightness
of the new headlight, then you can probably
get a brighter bulb. But if it’s the distance
you’re concerned with, that is really dictated
by either the reflector behind the bulb or the
lens in front of the bulb. And you can’t
really change that. The bulbs have specifications
of where that filament sits. And depending on what’s
reflecting or projecting it through the lens, you’re not
going to change the distance. You can change the brightness. OK. But also to make your headlight
performance overall better, you need to polish up
the headlight coverage. We’ve written about this before. A little cloudy
or something like. You know, there’s
simple things that you can do to improve your
own headlight performance. That’s a good point,
particularly on a 2005 vehicle. They may have clouded
slightly, and worth checking the alignment
to add to Mike’s point. If the alignment is low, that
may be another attribute, so make sure that’s set. They brought me
here for a reason. Yeah. Good points. I knew there was a reason
Mike Quincy was here. We couldn’t think of
it, but we found it. Also, use your high beams as
often as you possibly can. Absolutely. That’s a given. That’s really important. OK, next question is from Alex. We bought a 2018 Volkswagen
Tiguan new from the dealer and we’re told not to rust
proof it from anywhere else because it’s already coated
and would void the warranty. Are they trying to sneak
something around us or is the car protected
against rust from the factory? Quince, what do you have
to say to Alex here? Well, the answer is yes, if
you use an aftermarket rust proofing system, you
can void the warranty. So the dealer was being a
straight shooter right there. I mean, today’s vehicles
have really good correct– sorry– corrosion protection. Easy for Alex to say. And even according to Consumer
Reports’ own reliability data, rust issues have gone way,
way down over the years. So that’s actually good
news for most consumers. The standard rushed
through warranties for most cars run
five years or longer. And dealers used to push
these aftermarket add on rust proofing. You’d spray it all over the car. They were never as good as
what you’re getting today. They’ve kind of maybe
given up on that. They’re still going to
push fabric protection, and paint seal, and
stuff like that, which you also don’t need. But yeah, definitely don’t worry
about not getting a decent rust proofing job from the factory. Yeah. And you know, as
Quince was saying, these rust proof or rust through
warranties are pretty long. Like, seven years, 100,000
miles for a Volkswagen Tiguan. And the things
that would happen– you could get an
electrical malfunction if you were to spray stuff on. That being said, once
your new car warranty is up, if you want to add some
of these aftermarket systems– I talked to John Ibbotson,
our chief mechanic. And he kind of
likes this system, it’s called fluid film, which
is kind of like a lanolin or wax thing, and you can
actually spray that on the underneath of a car. This is if once your
warranty is over, and now you are going to affect
anything, you could do that. But if you were to
do it beforehand and there was an
electrical malfunction, they then may not fix
whatever happened to the car. What’s all this
stuff put under here? This is not us. Exactly. So think about it maybe after
the car is out of its warranty. Yeah, Big John said
same thing to me. A lot of people that
run their own snowplows, take pickup trucks,
they are out there in the snow, and the salt,
and all that other stuff. And they’re
frequently– and I think John said you have to
do it like once a year. That’s the thing. You do have to do
it once a year. So anyway, there’s several
products out there. Look into that. Our next question
is from Richard. Hi, love the show– thanks Richard. I have a 2019 Subaru
Forester and plan on buying a winter
tire wheel package. My dealer offers a
package, but I also checked the local
tire distributor that has a wider selection,
some of which are quite stylish. Would these generic wheels
fit as well as Subaru wheels? Also, is there a difference
between CUV and SUV specific tires, or
is it marketing hype? Jen, what’s going on here? All right, so first, we
agree with you, Richard. Going with a– if
you can afford it– tire and wheel package
for your winter tires is a good way to go. Couple of reasons,
you don’t have any damage from the mounting
and dismounting process. There’s tire pressure monitoring
sensors and everything now, so you can get one set of
those and kind of leave them in place, multiple things. But what we say is
just like the plow guy you talked about with salt
and sand and all these things that are kicking up under
your tires in the winter, why don’t you go with
the least expensive? A steel wheel is what
we often do here. Put an inexpensive hubcap wheel
cover over that and run that. So you may not even want
to go with the stylish, just because all this stuff
is potentially coming up. Right. Go with a nice strong, sturdy,
but inexpensive usually they’re black steel wheels. Everyone knows you’re
run in your winter tires, nothing wrong with that. You’re going to be running
around and all the salt and dirt anyway. Right. And sometimes, those aftermarket
wheels that look all stylish don’t have the quality of
those original equipment wheels as well. So that’s another reason to just
get these basic steel wheels. They’re usually pretty sturdy. And a good habit, whether
you’re getting new wheels or not, when you
have a tire change, a couple days later,
it’s not a bad idea to just go around make sure all
the nuts are still on tight. Because things can wobble
or feel tight to a dealer, and maybe not be. Good thing to do. And SUV versus CUV,
the main difference there is the size lineup. CUV is really just larger
sizes, maybe shorter sidewall, wider version of passenger. Right, So passenger cars. So they’re not marketing. It’s really just
where the sizes lie. Meant for different cars. Yeah. So get those black steel
wheels for your winter tires. They’d be stylish all of sudden. OK, John says, hi, CR, longtime
listener, first time caller– I like that. It’s like [INAUDIBLE]. Thank you, John. I’m seeing great deals
on used Nissan LEAFs I see a 2014 with 40,000
miles for $10,000. Seems like a great deal. Are there any concerns with
buying early generation EVs. Thanks. Quince, what do you think? Go with the early EV or? Well, when you’re thinking
about a used Nissan LEAF they’re not all created equal. For example, the
earliest versions just had about a 75
mile range, which is kind of pitiful compared to
what we’re getting these days. The 2016 models have
poor reliability. So again, you have to really
be very careful when you’re tempted to buy a used LEAF. The LEAF also scored a poor
in the IHS small overlap crash test, which applies to
the 2013 and 2017 models. Right. So it’s all of a sudden got
much more complicated than I can get a cheap used Nissan LEAF. We would say if you’re
interested in this, look for second gen model,
which is kind of new-ish– I mean, 2018– which got a
range of about 140 miles. And then getting the one
with the 60 kilowatt battery will get you closer
to 200 miles. So that the timing to buy
a used EV is really good. In fact, we have an article
on this very subject and on,
because a lot of them are coming off leases. We’ve seen listings of three
or four-year-old used LEAFs from $10,000 compared
to maybe $30,000 new. We’d also say consider
a 2017 Chevrolet Bolt, which has a 250 mile range. Fun little car. Right. But definitely, a used
EV can be a great buy. Yeah. Cool, great. Giovanni has another
question here. Hi, CR, I recently bought
a 2019 Toyota Camry SE and have been searching
the owner’s manual for break in information,
but can’t find it what do you recommend. Well, we got the answer for you. So did a little digging. You want to go to page 193 of
the your 2019 owner’s manual. You really did that? Yeah. Wow. I’m here for the people. Holy cow. You earned your paycheck today. And it says breaking
in your new Toyota. To extend the life
of the vehicle, observing the following
precautions is recommended. For the first 186 miles– because that’s 300 kilometers,
that’s why it’s 186– avoid sudden stops. Now that may sound
weird, but the reason is that because it’s
for the brake pads. You know you want to be
a little gentle on them for that first period. It’s actually kind of
a bedding in process. When you actually bed in
breaks, you do like, half brake pressure from 40 miles an hour. And you don’t have
to worry about that, but the main thing
for you guys is just don’t break really hard
right during that first period. For the first 621 miles– 1,000 kilometers– do not
drive at extremely high speeds. Avoid sudden acceleration. Do not drive continuously
in low gears. Do not drive at a constant
speed for extended periods. And basically, I mean,
the rule of thumb here if you don’t want to follow
all these things to the t is basically, drive
your car kind of easy. Gently. And try to vary everything
you do as much as possible. Try not to be on the
highway for like 200 miles straight when it’s brand new. Because when I
saw this question, that’s the first
thing I thought of. Because I remember years ago
reading that you shouldn’t be using your cruise
control in a brand new car, going at a constant
speed, blah blah, blah. And I thought, well
maybe that’s change. But obviously, it hasn’t. The other thing is, it’s
just worth mentioning that with all of the test
cars that we buy here, we do a break in
process, as well. It’s a little more involved than
what the owner’s manual says. We break him in for
2000 miles before we start our test program. So that’s just a little
tidbit about what we do here. With all different drivers. So we get away from that
continuous or all of that. So yeah, good question. Yeah, absolutely. So next question is from Daniel. I own a used 2016 Mazda
6 with 39,000 miles. The last time I gassed
up out of curiosity, I wanted to see if
the pump would let me add more gas after it stopped. It did. I only added an
extra 0.15 gallons. I then read about how
topping off the tank can damage a car’s components. Is there any way to know
if I’ve done any damage or if doing this just wants
would have negative effects? Jen, what do you have
to say about this? Right, so this is kind
of cool, because I used to work for a
fuel system supplier. And there’s actually
a lot more– She pumped gas. I did. [INAUDIBLE] There’s nothing– I was
a refueling specialist. I wish the whole service
gas station would come back. Jen’s out there cleaning the
windshield and everything. Sometimes, I think in my
head, I think about that. I would love to open a
full service gas station, just be out there– In uniform. Checking people’s oil, and
checking the tire pressures. But that’s not what
you’re talking about. When I retire, I’m
having a mobile tire changing station that
comes to your house and changes them
in your driveway. Are you serious? Well, don’t give away
your million dollar thing. Anyway, yes. So there’s a lot more going on
in the tank than just a tank. So what the damage
of topping off is to the onboard refueling
vapor recovery system, ORVR. The ORVR system, which is really
a charcoal canister that’s managing during refueling,
the vapor that gets generated. And it’s collecting it
in a charcoal canister, and then it condenses back out. And that ultimately is fed
back into the fuel system. Adding more fuel
after the click off is putting fluid or
damaging that charcoal canister of the ORVR system. So that’s the component you’re
potentially in this case. And then going back to my
history of tank building is 0.15 gallons,
you’re probably fine. But it’s this weird thing of
why we feel that that pump needs to show all zeroes. Do you do that? OCD. I asked Big John, our
mechanic, about this. And he said, you know, people,
they want to get it to– I don’t know. Just even number
for some reason. And you know, John is
a man of few words, and he said look,
here’s the rule. If it clicks, you stop. But I have to make an
admission right now. What? I’ve been doing is
wrong my whole life, because what I would always do– I would let it stop. And then I’d wait
five seconds and then hit it again, just
in case the pump head slightly malfunctioned. Every once in a while,
you won’t get a full fill. And I’ve learned
something today. I realize now I need to just,
when it clicks, you stop. Right. And there are issues. Because in there, in the
paper system is the shut off. So you can have a
premature shut off. And that’s something
going wrong with the car. OK, thanks, Jen. I think that’s a
really good tip. Moving on to Samuel. Samuel says, hi, Talking Cars. I just started watching the
show and I really like it. I’m turning 15 in a
year and have already started looking at cars. I like my mom’s
2008 Honda Pilot, but I’m wondering if there are
any other good options that are reliable, have low mileage,
and costs under $7,000. Thanks. Quince, you always have
interesting picks for us here on the show. You’re kind of known for that. So let’s start with you. He’s like a lot of
teenage drivers. I want something that doesn’t
have a lot of miles on it, doesn’t cost a lot. It’s not always easy to find. But here’s the cool thing. You know, he’s 14 and
already thinking about it. Already talking about that. Because we feel like that’s
going away a little bit. Seems like the enthusiasm
for getting your license and driving has gone away. So this is great to see. Samuel, that’s my boy. Good job. So Quince, what do
you have for Samuel? Well, I looked up Consumer
Reports’ best cars for teenage drivers,
which Jennifer Stockburger has a lot of influence on. You’re involved in everything. I know, I know. She really is the MVP here. I mean, it’s the Mikes
and the MVP, right. So I’m going with a 2012
to 2013 Nissan Rogue. Decent reliability,
decent fuel economy. It’s going to be more agile,
smaller than the Pilot like you’re used
to with your mom. But still overall
pretty solid car, and hopefully not too expensive,
depending on finding one with not too many miles. All right. I think that’s a good choice. Jen, what do you have? So also having a
15-year-old son, I’m going to be right here
with you Samuel in a minute, but a couple of concerns
about the Pilot. We typically don’t think
that three row big SUVs are a great choice
for a young driver. So I get why you like
it, it’s a great car. But I would go, going
with that idea, something a little smaller. The problem for Samuel
and other young teenagers is we really want
you to get vehicles that have electronic
stability control, but at that price point that
they’re comfortable with, the $5,000 to $7,000, it’s
hard still to find them where it’s standard. So the good thing for you,
Samuel, is two years from now, or you know, when
you’re actually ready to purchase that
car, that will get easier at that price point. Do you have a pick or are
you just going to go off? So I have some thing to say. We’re in suspense here. So similar to Mike, I looked at
the small SUVs, 2011 to 2014. Hyundai Tucson, standard
stability control, great reliability
in those years. Good value, both new and used. So something to look at. And I had an option. If sedan was OK and you
weren’t necessarily home right in on a SUV, 2009 to
’12 Mazda 6, 4 cylinder. Good one. Good one. I like that one. Those are good choices. I was leaning more toward
the 2011 Honda Fit. Now ESC was standard on the
Fit– standard started in 2011. And it has very
good reliability. Should be able to
find one under $7,000 without too much of a problem. It has a lot of interior
room considering its size. But its size is one
of the reasons why I think it’s so good,
because as a rookie driver, you don’t want a big vehicle. You don’t want to be
able to run into– when you’re parking,
the smaller the vehicle is, it’s going to be
easier to not kind of graze into other herbs or trees when
you’re backing up or whatever. Not trees. I mean, when you’re backing into
the garage or whatever it is. I hit my family’s garage– See? Learning to drive, and
just didn’t judge the arc. And the notch is still there. And occasionally, my
father will point it out. That’s what happens when
you’re a new driver. You don’t judge those
things too well. The other thought I had
it was 2011 2012 Mazda 3. Again, a car with very good
reliability, a small car. But the nice thing about
this is it’s fun to drive. It has really precise
handling if Samuel is into that kind of thing. I was thinking, Samuel, if
he goes within your picks, you can either one with
manual transmission. Exactly. Which means no one
will borrow his car. Yes. Yes. So hopefully, that helps
you out there, Samuel. Moving on to John. John says, why do some
cars have red turn signals and others have yellow? Yellow seems to make
so much more sense. Thanks. Quincy, I’m going to
throw this to you. I think this is actually a
really interesting question, because I’ve wondered about
this for years myself. It is, and I did a bunch
of research on this. And it turns out that yes,
yellow, or as they say, amber, makes more
sense, because there’s a bigger transition between
the red brake lights and say, the yellow
or amber turn signals. So there’s different laws
in different countries. In the US, they still allow
red turn signals, which is not necessarily that common. The National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration did a study about this
and determined that, and I quote, “amber signals
show a 5.3% effectiveness in reducing involvement
in two vehicle crashes where a lead vehicle
is rear struck in the act of turning left,
turning right, merging into traffic, changing lanes,
or entering/leaving the parking space.” So they said the advantage
of amber rear turn signals is shown to be statistically
significant, which is not easy to say. They have this whole
report on And as you say, amber is
a sharper contrast, easier to pick up. But a great question. And you were right, John. And we all learn. Right. I mean, because when you
think about it, if you have a red tail light
or red brake light, and then another red
light flashing, that’s not that noticeable versus a
red tail light or brake light. And then suddenly, this
other caller has shown up. And I’ve always felt that it
just makes more sense to me. And I don’t know why they
don’t all do that just for safety on the road. They should all have
the sequential tail lights in the Mustang. Animation they call it. Some of the Audis have it. The turn signals are animated. We’re going to move on. I don’t know what’s
happening here. I’m losing control. I’m losing control of the show. Let’s go to– Did you have it? No. I’m sorry. OK. It’s a free for all. Jacob says, hi, Talking
Cars, love the show. I recently moved from Georgia
to northern New Jersey and took my 2013 Toyota
Camry XLE with me. The car has low profile
235/40 18R all season tires, and I’m not sure they’ll
suffice a Northeast winter. Should I get new winter tires? If so, there isn’t much of
a selection for that size. What should I get? Jen, I’m going to
throw this to you. But first, Jacob, recheck the
size of those tires, because– That was the first thing. I did a little research and
actually what came on your car was a 235/45 R18, not to 235/40. Whether you have the
four cylinder or V6 XLE, that’s the tire that
you really want. But anyway, Jen, specific
to his question, what do you have to say? Right, so just so
happens that this week, we have new tire ratings,
including performance winter models on So yes, a lot of people
were surprised, I think, that a Camry had a 235/45. I found the same thing. So Jacob, check,
235/45 18 V rated. Certainly a performance tire. Probably not that
great in the snow, so it’s a good idea for
you to get winter models. Also, don’t forget, we
have a tire selector where you can put
your car in and find the models that have your size
available in those new ratings. So check out those new ratings. It’s fantastic. It’s really– Good idea. Really helpful. All right, next question. Max from Hawaii says, I have
a 2018 Subaru Forester 2.5i. The owner’s manual
states that if you drive on mountainous
roads, which I do, I should replace the oil under
the severe conditions clause every 3,000 miles. Is this really necessary given
today’s advance synthetic oils? Shouldn’t I be OK changing
oil every 6,000 miles per the regular
non-severe intervals? Thanks. Max, follow the manual. Change your oil
every 3,000 miles. OK, next. That’s almost like a dad. Yeah. Go to bed! If you’re driving in
severe conditions, you want to follow that manual. That’s what it says to do,
that’s what you got to do. Next question is Nicholas. I live in the Tampa
Bay Area, which is prone to flooding,
even when it doesn’t rain. More and more, I find
myself navigating around or through
flooded streets. I feel I must consider ground
clearance in choosing a car. I would prefer a sedan like a
Chevy Impala or Toyota Avalon, but they seem to ride much lower
to the ground than my sister’s new Honda CRV. Are SUV is better able to
handle mildly flooded streets than sedans? What do you say, guys? Well, I mean, don’t risk– I mean, sometimes people
are in a situation where they have to cross water. But generally, our advice
is turn your car around if you encounter water
in the road that looks to be six inches or deeper. Yeah. Because you don’t know
what’s under the water. Don’t know if there’s
a pothole, you don’t know if
there’s a wire down. If you go through
the water quickly, the water can rush
up over your hood, it can get inside your
engine, the intake, and completely seize
things, and make things absolutely horrible. Yeah. And in light of it being
hurricane season and things like that, we have some stories
up on It talks about how flooded roads
can be more dangerous than they appear. So please check that out. And if it’s deep enough
that you feel like an Avalon or Impala is going to be over
the frame rails or something, absolutely turn it back. That shouldn’t be a
differentiator that oh, I’m in an SUV, I can go. I used to live in
Austin, Texas where it’s generally
pretty dry, but they have all these dry riverbeds. And when they would
get an intense rain, they get a flash
flood that comes rushing through down the
riverbeds and over the roads. And every year,
the news stations would do stories, if you see
water rushing over the road, don’t go across it. And they put up an image
of full sized pickup trucks get lifted up and
carried downstream. So even if you have
ground clearance, you have a vehicle that
you think is big and heavy, forget about it. Yep. A couple extra inches
of ground clearance is not going to make a
difference in a flooding situation like that. OK, James says, I’m considering
a used Toyota Prius. With the 2016 redesign,
am I better off looking at a 2017 or 2018 model? Or should I look at it 2015? I’m really interested in
the Safety Sense package, and I’m not sure if
the 2015 offered that. Jen? Yeah, so 2015, you could get
optional forward collision warning, automatic emergency
braking, but city speed. So it also had– Mike was talking about– the Insurance Institute for
Highway Safety’s small overlap test was only acceptable. So I think, yes, go with
the two later years. The forward collision warning
automatic emergency braking Safety Sense was in place. All speed on the automatic
emergency braking. Now a good IHS small overlap. But do note that the blind spot
warning was still optional. A lot of people are assuming
that that Toyota safety sense has the blind spot
warning, it does not. So you would have to
pick that up separately. But yes, look at it 2017
or ’18 over the ’15. Yeah. Know the other interesting
thing about that, though, is that the
2016 and 2017 models had top reliability scores,
whereas the 2018 was a four in our reliability. Right. But four is still pretty good. But as far as used
cars go, Priuses are tough to beat
for reliability. I know they’re not
fun to drive, they’re not like an enthusiast car. You say that, but owner
satisfaction on the Prius is stellar. Yeah. Not everybody needs fun. My aunt thanks
for a Toyota Prius is like, the most fun
car she’s ever had. Well, it has a lot of
technology into it. And for 20 years Toyota
has been making this with all the batteries,
electric motors, and they still hold together
really, really well. They speak to the
technology a lot. OK, times a tickin’. I know you want to talk
about Priuses all day. One more. Let’s go to Hunter. Hunter says, hi, Talking Cars. I daily drive a 2002 Mustang
GT that’s well past its prime. I still enjoy it, but it’s not
that comfortable or practical. I want a new car that’s
comfortable to drive everyday, fun, sporty, ideally
with a manual transmission. Yes! And more practical
than a Mustang. My budget is around $30,000 new. I’m considering the new Hyundai
Veloster N, Volkswagen GTI, the Honda Accord Sport 2.0t. Which one would you recommend
or is there something else I haven’t considered? All right, who
wants to go first? I’ll go first. OK. So to me, when Hunter
says practicality– to me– You are Ms. Practicality. Let me guess, Kia Sorento. No, not Kia Sorento. He said fun to drive. Mustang GT– Your answer is
always Kia Sorento. I’m not that bad. Anyway, that says
to me four foors. That’s to me where the
practicality– non-coupe– so I kind of ruled out the
BRzs, the FRSs, the Veloster Ns. So I think of his
list, the GTI, that is one car where owner
satisfaction way outscores even reliability. People love their GTIs. Optional safety, 29
miles per gallon. Not on your list
hunter, Honda Civic SI. Four door practicality– I thought about that too, but
he mentioned the Accord, which is bigger than the Civic SI. I’m just saying, he
said or an alternative. That’s a great choice. Something else, there’s
a something else. 34 miles per gallon. And also, with the GTI,
which is a really fun car, the main transmission is
fantastic in that car, you can get the plaid seats,
which is just so cool. Quince, did you have a pick? Yeah, we’re going from– we’re talking a Toyota Prius. My pick is a Dodge
Challenger RT. Why? Oh, because I’m thinking, he’s
coming out of a Mustang GT, OK? He’s grown up, Hunter has. But he’s thinking about– it’s
V8, it’s a manual transmission. Listen, the Challenger has a
smoother, more comfortable ride than the Mustang. It’s a little bit
bigger, bigger trunk. You might spend a little
bit more than 30 grand. You’ve got to go really,
really easy on the options. But these are cars
that have a lot of wiggle room in
terms of pricing when you get to the dealer. They’re super fun,
they sound great. And you talk about
owner satisfaction, the Challenger has among the
highest owner satisfaction in Consumer Reports surveys. Hunter, go with your gut. You wanted the Hyundai Veloster
N, that’s what you want. All the choices that he
listed were really good. Go with Hyundai Veloster
N. Super fun to drive, sounds fantastic. Has electronically
controlled suspension. That means you can adjust
it between soft and firm. And you’re going to have
a blast in that car. So Hunter, go with your gut. Well, that’s going to
do it for this episode. If you want to learn more
about the topics and the cars we talked about in
this episode, click on the links in the show notes. Don’t forget to send
those questions, comments, 30 second video clips to
[email protected] As always, thanks for
watching, and we’ll see you all next week.

33 thoughts on “Are Used EVs a Safe Bet; Best First Cars For Teens | Talking Cars with Consumer Reports #220

  1. William seems to think that low brake pad thickness would cause a delay in the response of the AEB system? Why would he even think that that? It might affect effectiveness, but not cause a delay in response.

  2. 3M professional undercoating spray is great, prevents corrosion, and doesn't void any warranty when applied properly.

  3. As much as corrosion protection has improved in recent years, if you live in Upstate NY or a snow belt where roads are heavily salted, it is still not good enough. Fluid Film if properly applied is said to really help with corrosion protection. While on the subject of safety like the benefits of amber turn signals, heated mirrors are essentially a safety item in cold climates, yet many vehicles don't have them on lower trim levels.

  4. What would be a strong contribution to safety would be to somehow encourage filling stations to place automatic air pumps at the pump Islands to encourage owners and drivers to maintain proper tire inflation.

  5. Great show, as always.

    I hadn’t checked out the tire selector and I just did for my 2014 Honda Accord, very useful!

  6. lol my first/second car is a 2005 Legacy GT (first was 09 2.5i, then after 4 months the engine blew)

  7. I own a Toyota Highlander SE with the 19” rims. I have discovered that replacement tires for this particular size is very limited (as well as winter tires/rims). It also appears that none of the available tires in the OEM size are not that highly rated by Consumer Reports. I have read that I could get slightly bigger tires that would fit on the OEM rims, which would increase the selection of tires. Is that true?

    What all-season tires would you recommend as replacement tires for my vehicle?

  8. For those of us, over 40, who turn wrench on occasion, the ORVR used to be called the evap canister. It's part of the emissions control system and it handles the gas vapors from the tank. When appropriate, It sends those vapors to the engine to be burned. Overfilling the tank can put liquid gas in that canister and damage that part of the system. I don't disagree with Mrs. Stockburger's explanation but sometimes things need to be explained a little bit differently as terms change over generations.

  9. Alex, When the corrosion warranty on your car expires, the inevitable rust is entirely YOUR problem. As a Canadian dealing with long, salt-strewn winters, it is plainly obvious that additional rustproofing from Day 1 is as necessary to your car's body as oil and fluid changes are to your car's drivetrain. Krown (with a K) is the best rust protection we have up here. It is applied annually and after 14 winters there is virtually no visible rust on my car including the undercarriage. It surprises me greatly that CR is not testing rustproofing products as a critical component of PREVENTATIVE maintenance for vehicles in harsher climatic regions. #Shame #RustNeverSleeps

  10. Does anyone else remember when Mike Monticello was a bit backwards in going forwards? BTW Jennifer is still the MVP.

  11. Excellent video regarding brake light colors, "The Senseless Ambiguity of North American Turn Signals":

  12. On the 2005 Elantra (make sure the bulb alignment tab is correctly placed in the slot) I seen many bulb installed incorrectly causing headlight beam to hit the ground.

  13. On the 2005 Elantra (make sure the bulb alignment tab is correctly placed in the slot) I seen many bulb installed incorrectly causing headlight beam to hit the ground.

  14. I just help my grandfather buy a used Ford C-Max energi with 36,000 miles off lease for $13,900 and I think it’s a screaming deal

  15. I'd never recommend a Nissan because of their high failure rate CVT , specially on high mileage ones

  16. As far as rustproofing your car at some point, from what I've seen Krown offers a great service.

  17. am I the only one that don't see the point of asking CR or any other outlets for advices on which car I should get? I'd just go try them all, and make a decision base on which one I like the most. when they give you advices, they are just their opinions, you still have to like the car at the end of the day.

  18. I had my first Used car at age 15 sitting looking at me for a year before I turned “legal Age” to drive it. That was the Cleanest Used Car Ever!

  19. Most cars are warrantied for 100,000 miles or 7 years on rust. If you live in a salt covered winter on the roads, just make sure that your car gets an undercarriage wash after every snow storm. I did this on a 2006 Saab and after 12 years besides a little rust on the exhaust system at 190,000 miles, it was in great shape. Sold it now has 210,000 miles and still just some rust on the muffler – nothing on the body.

  20. M. J. M. Your program was rocken'. I've been watching from the beginning (program #1) and you three had just the right amount of humor (the interactions between you three) coupled with your serious recommendations. It's taken CR 220 programs to get to this level of presentation for a full 30+ minute gig. WELL DONE!

  21. Re: best first cars for teens: I need recommendations for TALL drivers–I've got two kids over 6 feet tall, and I'm 6'4" myself. I doubt I could drive any of the cars shown, and they probably couldn't either. I KNOW that none of us could safely ride in the back seat of the Mazda with that curved roof.

  22. To answer that SUV water vs. car in water, the only big difference is if you have a Jeep which has a lot more clearance than any SUV or car. Otherwise it is not significant in how deep you go.

  23. Used to push rust-proofing. Australian corporate new car dealerships are still in 1990's marketing zone – they haven't heard of the new technology called the internet.

  24. 15:09 everyone I know is topping his tank… the game is having a fun number in liters or money, and it's hard, I'm in Europe, Euros go faster than liters. 92.29€ of Diesel yesterday in our XC70 D5. Never damaged any car.

  25. Would love
    To see a cr year
    Top tier vs non top tier bad gas. I know AAA did one but I’d love
    To see one from CR

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