Build your own easy UV Curing Chamber for Resin 3D Printers like the Anycubic Photon


hi my name is Kathy Millatt and this week
I’m going to turn this box into a UV curing chamber for my 3d printer. I
just bought an Anycubic Photon and it’s a resin printer and it uses a certain
wavelength of UV light to cure that resin but when it comes out the printer it
needs just a little bit of post curing not necessarily a long time but enough
that you can’t scratch it I just got this is a Really Useful box
and I’m going to line it with foil and put some led UV lights in so that I can
create this curing chamber. First thing to do spray your box with glue and line
it with foil so that all your UV light bounces around and doesn’t get wasted
and escape from your box. This is just a permanent spray adhesive and using
Hobbycraft or Craftmount adhesive or anything that just sprays easily, nice
and finely and will stick your foil to your plastic. Use strong foil, it doesn’t
really matter which brand. The stronger it is the easier it is not to tear it but if
you tear it don’t worry just fill the hole. spray the bottom. I’ll pull my foil
out first this doesn’t have to be me you when everywhere spray this in a
well-ventilated space I’ve got my doors open so just continue out adding more
foil till all the inside edges are covers and if you make a hole don’t
worry just put a bit more glue on and cover it with another piece of foil
don’t forget to do the lid like I did to make sure I’ve got a nice even cure I’m
going to put a turntable in here and although it’s got a mirrored surfaces a
bit scratched and you can just put it on and your pieces go around so you don’t
have to worry about it being too even because they will rotate and it’s
actually operated so I don’t need to worry about much else
it is quite tall but most of the parts I’m doing will fit within here no
problem so I don’t need to light my lid you can if you want to it’s not hard to
do just continue doing what we’re going to do with the box I went on Amazon and
bought some 12 volt LED strips and these are in the right nanometer range 405 for
the any cubic photon you have to check because some of the strips are three six
five and we want to be in the right range to cure the resin cures at a
certain wavelength of light another than that they’re just like normal LEDs now
I’ve been bought the one which had an adaptor as well because I didn’t want to
have to faff finding the right adapter so I’ve had these out and plug them in
to check that they work better no they do I got five meters of strip I’ve got a
box and I need to get as many as I can out the five meters first of all I’m
going to cut my strips and when you look at these types they’ve got a plastic
covering on them which you can remove and then they’ve got a little scissor
mark and cut lines and you have to cut them on those lines so you can solder
them but you can cut in this lot every three LEDs so there’s plenty of cut
lines so we’re just going to put them in work it out and my nearest cut line is
that one so I’m going to cut on there so I just need the scissors and I’m just
going to cut here before we go any further I need to drill a hole
for my wire to get out so simple so I’ve got it to this stage and I’m just going
to hot glue this in place and I’ve got this nifty little box glue pen that
makes easy work of it oops and in we pop it on the inside just to
make sure it’s won’t really secure the next step I need to sold all these ends
together so something may seem hard but actually it’s quite simple you just need
to know a few of the things about it so you need a soldering iron need to be hot
and clean the tip regularly you need solder lead-free safest and you need
some flux this is just normal plumbing flux and you need something to hold all
of your items now unfortunately my plugs on the wrong
side for me but here we go so I’ve got this little handy whole thing which
works really well cut a couple of pieces of wire and prep them so I’ve got my
wire over here and I’m going to cut them using just a parrot wire cutter this is
one of my favourite wire cutters and you skip them down there and you can use it
to just snip each one now you don’t want too long Pat’s at you too much you want
quite a small amount so they can’t cross and touch each other when you’re doing
it so it’s a little bit more than I’ve been doing and then I just touch those
into the flux briefly they don’t need a lot to get great big globs because
you’re allowing me to clean it off and I prime them with solder so here’s my
solder there’s my soldiering iron and I just touch them see and the flux melts
and it just helps the solder flow kind of cleans all the tarnish off them so
there we go and those are soldered now and they’re very easy to attach these
bits of led are a bit harder because they’ve got this plastic covering
on them it’s kind of a silicon covering so we need to take that off so a knife
and slice it off this one’s actually I think it was a gap between two previous
ones so you can see it’s gotten solder on there ready and that’s not typical I
find it really hard to get rid of this I end up scraping them quite a bit just to get rid of the last bits of this yucky
stuff and then just a small dotter flux and bit of solder on your soldiering
iron and I’m going to put these into my little handy holding about the distance
apart of my existing this is the one that I’m doing now Reds on the left and
there’s a little plus it’s a minus on the right so I need to match my red and
my red wire and my plus so a little bit of solder on there touch it to there
don’t do it for too long because you don’t want to melt any of the stuff
further up street and if you hold it on for a long time then there is a danger
you might do that and then just same on the back and we’re done
so now all I see ethically need to do is to get my plug and plug it in the side
and they should all light up and I’m going to check them all the way through
to the end wherever that is yes so they’re all lighting up and this is what
UV light looks like forget time now I need to fill them into place and they do
have a blue strip that you can pull off and is glue on the back which I will use
but in my experience of using these not this brand but other strips like this
that doesn’t last as well as it should so I’m going to put a little bit of hot
glue on as well and I’ve got this nifty little hot glue gun that I’ll use just
in a couple of places just to give it a little bit extra grip as planned I put
five long strips and sweet short strips down each of the sides and I’ve made
sure when I did my wires that they would cut to those lengths and formed she did
mean I had a wire that went from one long side to the other side and I just
glued that out of way of any led so it didn’t mask any of
them and then some of the wires were a little bit stiff and stuck out so I made
sure they were well connected by just putting a big globs literally globs of
hot glue so that they’re well held and they wouldn’t pull off and break the LED
strip in any way and they couldn’t really move but you can see why you need
your foil to be well glued because you’re actually doing onto the foil at
this point and do make sure that none of the metal touches the foil because it is
of course conductive and can short out your LED strips so that’s why hot glue
also helps because it stops any connection shorting as you use this in
the future so now all I have to do is put this down get my turntable put the
model on it turn my turn table on turn this over and find my oh and the way we
go and you can’t see that much light coming out because it’s mostly sealed by
all the foil which is good so here we are a fully functioning UV curing
chamber

20 thoughts on “Build your own easy UV Curing Chamber for Resin 3D Printers like the Anycubic Photon

  1. Did you do VIDEO ON YOUR 3d PRINTER? Anycubic Photon Resin DLP 3D printer. iF NOT i WOULD LIKE TO SEE.

  2. Excellent tutorial, Kathy! You're tempting me to get a 3D printer! Thanks for sharing!

  3. Interesting vides. I don't have a 3D printer as of yet, but your tool looks to be just the thing for that last bit of setting. 👍 I was going to look up the light strips you used but could not remember how to spell LED, sigh, till another day.😁😁

  4. Good idea, I suggest to use a Bucket, so you don't need to cut and soldier you can wind the LED strip from top to b0ttom. Cheers Andy

  5. Amazing video as always!
    I was wondering if you could do a video on snow/ice dioramas?

  6. Would not a coat of paint before the glue make certain that you avoid uv-exposure?
    Might be a bit of overkill though…

  7. Thank you for adding this how-to. Great job, as always! I just ordered my Anycubic Photon last night and am looking at post-curing options before it gets here. I would love to see you do some videos on how you use yours and the modelling tools you use to create your 3D models. I am hoping to use mine to expand my figure and scale modeling range. Thank you again for what you do!

  8. Hey Kathy!! I just wanted to say thank you for your videos. I am a wargamer and your vids let me add that finishing touch that really makes it stand out. I am a serious newb but your vids keep me inspired and on the track to getting good at this. Thanks much!!

    Erik

    Btw: your oil video is great. I am going to use the techniques to make a puddle of radioactive goop!!

  9. Well made! I just received my led stripe and had to build a chamber too. By the way there a sold stripes wich reach 400nM and 405 NM wavelength. The resin is sensitive to 405.
    Please alow me to give some hints to short the build process of the box.
    1. Instead of the mess with the glue spray I would cover it with self adhesive aluminum tape. This is used for finishing insulation works of aluminum covered insulation and sure available in the department store or online.
    2. You can save much time by using solder with flux inside. Also you haven't to clean all from the the flux you had the wires dipped in. Some separate flux will corrode the solder and conducters if not cleaned.
    Finally I ask myself if a turntable is with this perfect illumination necessary? Did you made some testing with and without? Still curious 😉

  10. Wow! Love this idea. I've been thinking of creating a lightbox and I can sure used some of the tips you shared. Thank you!

  11. I'm afraid this is a late comment, but I noticed from a couple of your excellent videos you're using plumber's flux for soldering. That's definitely not a good idea as it is corrosive and could cause electrical problems over time like short cicruits. I'd suggest getting some roisin flux for electrical use instead. Most advice I've seen says to use real lead solder (60/40 mix) as well as it melts and flows better than the nasty non-lead stuff. As long as you don't handle the solder and then lick your fingers you'll be fine 🙂

  12. Much easier way to do this. You can buy 30W 385-390nm LED flood light arrays for <US$75 on Amazon. Just place flat on box and plug in. Much more power.

  13. Great build, thank you!
    An added tip to MUCH faster curing. Place your print in a glass container of water – fully submersed, then cure it in the UV box. It cures much faster because oxygen inhibits the curing process. I went from curing from hours to a few minutes.

  14. Thanks Kathy I was literally just looking for a curing light. 0lanning on buying the Anycubic soon. How do you like yours so far?

  15. I'm looking into getting a resin printer, so looked into homamade curing chambers. This is a great tutorial, but to anyone following this, please do not solder like this.

    Don't use lead free solder as a start. It is horrible to work with, needs higher temperatures, (more chance of melting your project, or damaging components) makes more brittle connections, and is needlessly expensive due to silver content.

    Also don't use corrosive (plumber) flux, it should not be used for electrical connections, as it might corrode your contact pads.

    Instead get some basic rosin core solder, (I. E. Solder with flux core) and during pre-tinning nor the actual joining, please don't ever carry solder with your iron, as it will burn off the flux before you get to soldering. Besides it's an unnecessary safety risk to carry molten metal. The correct way: Touch your iron to the project to heat it, then touch the solder to the connection to flow it.

    Lastly, always cover your electrical connections heat shrink tubing. Small tubes over the small leads, a larger tube over the whole connection. Especially if you're attaching it on metal.

  16. Try to connect stripes in parallel, this gives you a uniform light (sorry for bad English)

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