How to Diagnose Control and Programme Problems with a Dishwasher

Hi I’m Josh from eSpares.
And in this video I’ll be helping you to diagnose control
and program issues with your dishwasher. The first thing were going to look at is if your dishwasher is completely dead.
The first thing to check is where the power is actually getting
into the dishwasher so unplug it from the socket and plug
something else in such as a hair dryer or vacuum cleaner or anything just to make sure that there
is power at the socket. Now once you’ve established that is the
case we can move on to looking at the plug and making sure that
the fuse in the plug hasn’t blown so I’m just
going to take the back of the plug of the dishwasher. And then grab a multimeter. place that onto the
lowest resistance reading and just have a quick check of the
resistance of the leads on your meter despite shorting them together and on
I’m getting a reading this about 1.7 ohms. So if I just place the probes onto the fuse either end, and I should
get a similar reading if the fuse hasn’t
blown. And again I’m getting about 1.7 so that
shows that the fuse is OK. Now when you’ve
established that the fuse in the plug is OK the next thing to do is check for
continuity between the plug and the control board in the dishwasher. Now
in this particular dishwasher the control board is housed at the top on the inside of the door. But it can
vary from one model to another so in yours it may be at the bottom of the door or
it may be on the side at the back of the
dishwasher. So you may have to look around to find it. So i’m just
going to start by unscrewing the screws around the inside the
door so I can get to the control board inside. Okay so here we have the Control Board inside the door. Now i’m
looking for continuity between the plug and the control board so I’m going to
be checking how the power comes down through the
live and neutral pins on the plug Its then going to come possibly
through an on off switch if your dishwasher has one. If it does make sure the switch is turned
on for this and it then goes from the switch into the
Control Board. Now the way the I’m gonna be
testing is looking for a short circuit on the meter. Now of course normally a
short-circuit is a bad thing, but in this case the short-circuit shows
that and there is a connection between the plug and the board. So I’m
going to start by placing one of the probes of the meter
onto the live pin of the plug. I’ll just closed the
door to make it a bit easier. And then grab the other probe of the
meter and place that onto the brown pin here. And because I’m looking for.
short-circuited it should read around about a couple of ohms
possibly less. And again I’m getting about 1.8 that So now an established and the power is
getting from the plug to the control board but
not getting any further and that would probably explain why the
dishwasher is dead and it’s because the control board is
faulty. Now if when you do this you on getting the reading on the meter
just try moving the probe on the board around all the different
wires until you do get a reading of course when you do get a reading that would show that the power is
getting to the board the board is faulty and may need to be replaced. On the other hand if moving the probe
around still doesn’t produce any reading then
that would indicate that there is a fault between the plug and the board and its most
likely to be in the wiring. The next fault we will have a
look at is if you’re dishwasher is blowing the fuse
when you turn it on. Now in most cases this is going to be
caused by the presence of a short. And that can either be in the
control board or in one of the components elsewhere in
the dishwasher in most cases it’s actually going to be
in the heater. Now we can test for short just by using on meter to test across the live and neutral or live and earth pins on the plug. And again a short is going to show up as less than a couple of ohms. Now if
you do get the reading of a short circuit, try
disconnecting the heater and then testing again on the plug to
see if the short is gone. And if the reading is a much much higher and that would show that the
short-circuit is likely to lie in the heater. And you can confirm that
by testing the heater itself. For a working heater the
reading should be somewhere between twenty and fifty ohms. So obviously any reading
that is significantly outside if those would indicate that the heater has
developed a short-circuit and you’ll need to replace it. Now with a
look to power problems let’s move on to look at program problems and fault codes. The control board in
most dishwashers respond to faults in the
appliance with a fault codes. And this can be through a
combination of lights or letters and numbers. However manufacturers use different
fault codes for their dishwashers. So it can be just
as beneficial to watch the dishwasher and see when in a cycle it stops to
determine when the fault is occurring. The
first point to which he might get a fault code is when you turn the dishwasher on. If water is leaked into it the
dishwasher may register this as a flood. And you will hear the drain pump
whirring continuously as it tries to get rid of that water. Now you can check to see if there’s
any sort of leakage by just by tilting the dishwasher onto its
side. And watching to see if any water drains
out the bottom and if it does just take the base of the
dishwasher and have a look inside at the pipes for
any damage. It may also be that the detergent is
simply foamed too much and that’s caused the leakage.
Whatever happens just get rid of any water or anything that is
causing it to leak and then put the base back on and turn
the dishwasher on again to see if that resolves the problem. Now when you turned your dishwasher on
and closed the door to start the cycle the first thing that happens is the
drain pump turns on. Any liquids that’s run of the
glassware or the crockery into the machine is drained away and that takes about 20 seconds. After that the inlet valve turns on and the dishwasher
starts to fill with water until it’s just below the door seal. Once it’s hit the correct level and the wash pump turns on and
that’s when you hear that familiar whoosh noise as the water is sprayed around the dishwasher. After
that the heater turns on if required. And shortly after the heater
turning on your hear that very familiar clunk noise as the dispense a draw opens and lets the detergent into
dishwasher. Now failure to complete any of those
parts of the process will result in the dishwasher stopping
and displaying a fault code. The rest in the wash cycle consists of
washing draining and heating followed by the
drying cycle now some dishwashers use a fun in the
drying cycle to circulate air around the cavity and help the water
evaporate of the crockery. While other dishwashers
rely simply on the residual heat with in the crockery for the water to evaporate of. Now one
final thing to consider if you need to replace the control board
in your dishwasher. Many manufacturers make their control
boards so that they have to be programmed when they are fitted. Now this is
possible for you to do but it may require purchasing additional
equipment and this can be expensive. So for that
reason if you are replacing the control board you may prefer to use a fixed price repair service such as Repaircare who can do the fix for you. If you need help with diagnosing other
folks in the dishwasher see our other eSpares videos. And spares for dishwashers
along with other appliances are available on the eSpares website.
Thanks for watching

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