How To Driftcar EP7 – Takapakkia

Depressing morning Taken in March 12, 2020
ACS/corona-talk ends in 2:13 It’s depressing because… Besides the day being the 12th day of the month, entrepreneurs know what I mean Worst day of the month when you have to pay the VAT’s Besides that We got a little kick to our lives because we got to know that American Car Show 2020 has been Not cancelled, but moved, as far as I know To June, thanks to COVID-19 And for us it’s kind of a stalemate Because June 6th FPDA has a Finnish Drifting Championship race in Kuopio In which of course me and Sami are working and doing organizing in So our attendance in ACS is a big question I’m not sure if we’ll have a section for FPDA at all, but I’m not taking any sides with that yet Not worth speculating for us But for us here… Pisses us off very much, frankly Because we’ve built this car whole winter with the sight that we’d present it in ACS As a succesful project And for you, viewers, to see this car live Before it’s been rolled over in a mud pool in Lapua That’s how we roll But we’ll continue with this, we’ll be still building it to a complete state, but at least we’ll sleep better now At least we can build it in peace. So only time will tell if we get to ACS, if it’s then in June we might not be there But that’s enough of that No-one knows yet So, to the car. We have done quite a lot since last time The engine is back up, and the cooler’s in the rear.
But let’s start with the engine. So last friday we were cleaning and assembling the engine with Jere and Joona Before lifting the engine back in place I got an idea that we should get some Maston And now it’s a wasp We’ve got a qrotesque-looking hornet’s engine now, because it’s got so much yellow But when we assemble everything in the engine bay I hope it’ll even out a bit Sami’s taped some gold here Some thermal insulation, hoping that nothing will melt when we get the downpipe here We got awesome amounts of room for our 4″ downpipe, it’ll go down there easily I counted that we’ve got at least 3 millimeters of room to spare If the pipe’s round 3 millimeters is more than enough Also Engine mounts were replaced with these aluminium-urethane mounts, that have at least a bit of elasticity I think they had hardness of 80 shores They’re not rock solid, but are slightly elastic. Same stuff we have for the gearbox as well The turbine fits here actually quite well, the only narrow place is next to the Vanos cover Not too much room here, so we probably have to put a hat on to it So nothing melts that way The cover’s pointing downwards so it hopefully doesn’t get too much heat For this thing… The turbo’s intake side It looks like there’s room here But when you put on the headlights, there’s not This place’s a centimeter away from the headlight, so we had to change our plans a bit We had plans to use original lights but yeah… No. So, our future plans for this The aluminium thermostat housing is coming from E36 M50B28, comes with straight hose outputs So we can pretty much just put on the cooler pipes or weld AN-couplings, not sure which way to do yet We’ll have a special adapter-thingy for the oil filter’s place It’s aluminium, and has ready places for oil pressure and temperature and turbo oil pressure We can put the oil pipe straight up here Also it’s got a ready place for oil cooler so we’ll get our CSF oil cooler easily in place here in the front With simple hosing Also, this N/A-to-turbo conversion and it’s fun stuff, the oil return A-P Hautaniemi welded us a 12-AN nipple for us there It’s done so it should be over the normal oil level Meaning that it breathes well Actually, this is a thing that a lot of people are missing out. The oil return for plain bearing turbochargers, which this thing is, is really important It HAS to start here, from the lowest place of the turbo, as far down as possible. Meaning that the turbo’s hub has to be straight And the oil return HAS to be at least same diameter hose as the hole here In this case, about 19 millimeter hose is optimal It has to descend smoothly like this without any turns and twists In which the oil could make an airlock So at the same time the oil return hose acts as turbo’s replacement air hose Meaning that if it’s flooding, it’ll start leaking oil into the turbo Which means it’s not working properly I myself have been fighting with this thing with every car I’ve ever built But for ball bearing turbochargers, the flow rate is a lot less So they’re not as demanding with the oil flow as these So when you’re planning turbocharging That’s a thing you have to pay attention to Oh, also one thing A lot of people have been asking if we should put a choke to the oil intake side So it wouldn’t flood? NO. Not in any case. Plain bearing lubrication is based on flow rate And for the bearing, the oil film is actually the one acting as the bearing, and it needs to have perfect flow of oil If you put a choke on the intake, the flow just isn’t enough and the bearing just isn’t there Then it goes boom As for ball bearing ones They’ve usually got built-in chokes so they don’t need extra ones, UNLESS it’s said in the manual So every time you’re doing this to your own car Remember to check the requirements And the turbo’s oil circulation isn’t a thing where you should make compromises, it’s really important It’s more important than some things people pay much attention to So, other stuff about the engine We haven’t talked about this too much, but now when ACS crumbled we should tell you This will probably crumble too It’s 360-thousand kilometers driven M50B28TU which hasn’t been opened at all And up here we have THE engine It’s a ready block with ready studs Strengthened, all the normal aluminium block problems have been solved already It’ll be done with forged parts later, now we’ll sacrifice this for science Unopened old engine that’ll be turbocharged Just to see what happens, out of interest All the wirings will be planned in a way that swapping the engine is fun and easy to do So it can be done easily when we get some extra maintenance holes to our current engine We just want to see Sami actually made a model of the engine’s breathing, based on air mass data, on our dyno There’s a clip of that in our facebook And with Borgwarner’s Match Bot, we’ve done a calculation of the turbo, how much power it should produce with the given data And with the same engine, just turbocharged, we can compare the results and see what actually happens It’s some extra work, but we’ve got some extra time and a dyno to use, so why not, researching is fun Bust some myths, or this engine For the clutch, SACHS SRE with sinter plate, 800 newtons of torque duration if I remember right Billet flywheel, Kemppi-differential etc, otherwise stock Some changes to the interior Quick release to the wheel and seat belts Brakes We’ve got some testing going on here, we have the idea that we’ll have Different calipers for normal and handbrake here Other one’s used with foot, and other with hand Nothing special, there are ready adapters that we can get second calipers installed with They’re just bolt-on. In case you need them, you can ask Sami With e-mail, I don’t even know myself where these were bought from, but we can get them Then for the radiator Sami has done some modeling here We have the radiator from CSF The fastening’s done, it’ll be strengthened and the radiator will be encased Encasing the front end, where the air will come from the window tunnel that’ll be done here And the rear, where this Nishimoto 16″ Race-series fan is It’s not at its best when it’s like this, so the fan will be encased as well And reason for encasing is, that people ask “Isn’t it going to make the air flow and cooling ability just worse?” Basically yes, but at the same time you intensify the fan’s suction ability very much Now if we had the fan right behind the radiator, all the suction would be From the place where the air just happens to flow And there’s a possibility that it sucks warm air from the sides, and it doesn’t cool anything But when the fan’s cased tight with the radiator All the air sucked by the fan goes through the radiator That way the cooling efficiency is multiplied by a lot There’s some aluminium work to do, but that’s the way it’s going to be Front brakes Normal stuff Stock 328 brake caliper, EBC Yellowstuff pads and ATE Power Disc So pretty much stock BMW stuff, probably going to be enough for us. Also easy to upgrade If we need to Steel-braided brake hoses of course, and Sami has been doing the brake pipes The project’s looking good, side skirts and the boot lid The first boot lid was quite horrible, twisted into every direction and wrong size We’ll get new one from the manufacturer so that’ll be done The taping plan’s going, just waiting for finishing touches For me, next thing is to put the bumper supports on etc So we can install the bumpers And work on the impact protection things that are required by the rules, otherwise the body is ready Then we’re ready to do the electric stuff, from which we’ll be telling a lot more about We’ve got some special content coming See you in the next episode!

1 thought on “How To Driftcar EP7 – Takapakkia

  1. Ompa nätti projekti valmistumassa. Tästä mä tykkään kun auton saa rakentaa uusiksi ja kehitellä oman maun mukaan alkaa jopa itellä hinku laittaa omaa autoo. Jatkakaa samaan malliin 🙂

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