How To Test A Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (The Right Way)


Hi, this is Ryan with Parts Dr and today I
am going to show you how to test the water inlet valve on your dishwasher to see if it
is good or bad. Other videos online show to test the valve
by measuring the resistance of the solenoids on the valve. This test is not very conclusive and doesn’t
actually tell you if the valve is working properly. The testing process I am going to show you
is the only conclusive way to determine if the water valve is working properly. Water valves can fail in a variety of ways. They can start to leak which can cause water
to fill up inside the dishwasher when it is not in use. They can also cause the dishwasher to not
fill with enough water or not fill with water at all. The first thing you will need to do is unplug
or turn off the power to the dishwasher. Next you will need to gain access to the water
valve and look for a sticker or stamping in the metal on the side of the valve. What we will first need to know is if the
water valve is powered by AC or DC voltage and what the voltage rating is. You should should see a sticker or stamping
in the metal with information like this on the side of the valve. To test the valve we are going to need to
apply power to the valve to manually actuate the valve to see if it is working properly. If your dishwasher has a AC voltage water
valve, it is most likely powered by 110-120v AC power which is the standard power that
comes from the power outlet in your house. We are going to first need to make a test
cord to apply power to the water valve. To make a test cord you are going to need
a power cord, two crimp on insulated terminals, and a crimping tool. I will include links to the items we used
to make the test cord in the description below. If the wires are your test cord are not already
exposed you will need to strip the insulation from them so they look like this. On the power cord we are using here, the green
is the ground wire and the white and black are the two power wires. If the power cord you are using is not color
coded, you will need to test each wire with a multimeter for continuity to see which wire
is ground, hot, and neutral. The green is the ground wire, the white is
the neutral, and the black is the hot wire. We will not be using the ground wire on the
test cord, so we are going to cut that off. Now we are going to crimp on an insulated
1/4” female spade terminal onto each of the white and black wires. And now the test cord is done and ready to
use. If your dishwasher has a DC voltage water
valve, it is most likely power by 12-14V DC power. We are going to use a 12V battery pack that
uses 8 AA batteries for our power supply. This battery pack works nicely because it
has wires coming out of it that we can crimp out spade terminals to and it also has an
on/off switch that we can use to switch the power on and off. You can also use any 12V DC battery that you
can attach wires to. To get the battery pack ready we are just
going to need to crimp on a female spade terminal onto each of the two wires. I will include links to the items we used
for our battery back in the description below. Next we need to inspect the valve to see what
style wire terminals it has. There are two common styles of terminals we
see on most water inlet valves. Most either have two 1/4” male spade terminals,
or two smaller pins that stick out of the valve. If your valve has the 1/4” spade terminals,
we will be able to directly connect our test cord or battery pack directly to the valve. If the valve has two pins, we will need to
cut the wiring harness a few inches away from the valve. Next we will strip all four wires using a
wire stripper. On one side of the harness we will crimp on
two male spade terminals. And on the other side of the harness we will
crimp on two female spade terminals. This will allow us to connect
our power source to the water valve and reconnect the harness back together when we are done. To test the valve you will need to make sure
the water is turned on to the dishwasher and the water supply to the dishwasher is flowing at a good rate. Let the valve sit for little while and make
sure no water leaks from the outlet of the valve. If the water valve leaks when there is no
power supply to the valve then it is bad and should be replaced. Next connect the battery pack or test cord
to the water valve. It does not matter which wire goes to which
terminal. Now turn on your power supply or plug in your
test cord. If the water valve is good, the water should
flow out of the valve at a steady rate. If no water comes out of the valve or the
water flow seems restricted or slow then you should replace the valve. The water flow rate should be about that same
as the water supply line to the dishwasher. You can also check your dishwashers owners
manual or installation instructions for the manufactures recommended water supply specifications
for the psi and flow rate. Do not apply power to the water valve for
more than 1 minute at a time before letting it cool down for a few minutes as it can damage
the valve. If the flow rate on your water valve is slow,
it can be caused by sediment that has built up on the screen of the valve or inside the
valve. On most water inlet valves the screen is not
removable. Do not try to disassemble the water valve
to try to clean it. We often see people try to do this and it
will almost always result in leaking afterwards which can flood and damage your house. For the cost of replacing the water inlet
valve it is not worth damaging your house. If you find that you have a bad water inlet
valve and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store
by clicking the link in the description below. Please be careful when shopping water inlet valves
as many stores sell lower quality aftermarket water valves. You can be assured when you purchase from
Parts Dr that you will receive a new OEM water valve. Please subscribe to our youtube channel for
more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs
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29 thoughts on “How To Test A Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (The Right Way)

  1. Great video…. clear, precise and just the right level for a noobie DIY repair at home. Keep it up

  2. I hope you do more videos. Your video is clear, detailed, and logically presented. Thanks!

  3. Great video ! Helped me to not guess if my ohm reading was too high ! I just tested it and now I know it works ! Thank you, Tom.

  4. Finally someone who actually checked if the valve was moving or working. Thank you.

  5. It is a great video! My DW makes a grinding noise recently. It still cleans very well and drains very well. Just the noise is the issue. Yesterday, once I heard the noise, I immediately rushed over and opened the door. There were 47 minutes left on the clock. So roughly 50 minutes had passed. Inside DW, it was pretty warm and there was no water on top of the bottom screen. So I am totally at loss. Was the noise made by drain pump when it was to drain, or was it made by the inlet valve when it tried to open and let water in? Any one can help? The noise is not constant. DW only makes this noise two or three times during an 100 minutes wash cycle. Thanks for any help!

  6. Very helpful instructions. Thanks! Not sure you need to film every wire you crimped though!

  7. Thank you.
    My dishwasher leaks long after it's unplugged and water hose removed. Not the drain hose. Now I must guess. Not the water inlet valve either? Water supply hose must be connected and water supply turned on for water to leak out the inlet valve?

  8. at 4:32 the piece on the right. The plastic filter, if pushed in to far, can it pose a problem?

  9. Thanks! Question, even if the filler valve produces only a trickle, why wouldn't it still fill the basin till the float trickers?

  10. bit slow but interesting however if using 240v this could be a killer

  11. Great video! So I tested this on my GE and the valve seams to work fine. The issue that I'm having is that when I start a wash cycle it does its drain then pause, but does not start the wash. It just heats up and if you leave it for a while it gets everything inside extremely hot. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

  12. Great Video. My dishwasher leaks through the overflow in the door early in the cycle but only about a cup or so. After that it doesnt leak a drop. The float is free and clear of trash and the switch sounds like its operating when I move the float up and down. Any ideas of what I could check for?

  13. You never did show how to safely connect a power supply to the valve with the pin-type connectors.

  14. My dishwasher leaks from higher up when I turn it on and have bottom covers removed.. Any idea on what part that would be? Solenoid looks fine doesn’t leak

  15. Can't I buy and install a new valve for the price and time of this video? I don't get this

  16. Shouldn't you have installed the male spade terminals on the harness ''going to the valve'' instead ??

  17. your video is excellent. I just installed a brand new g.e. the inlet valve is hammering away, causing water to splash in the cup and leak. I tested the signal and it shows constant voltage. my appliance supplier provided me a free replacement for me to install. the new one did the same thing. now, wtf? I gated the shutoff under the sink , probably open 25%, and it solved my problem. have you ever seen this? what are the chances of 2 bad valves in a row? the amount of restriction on the hot water feed now effects the brand new faucet on the sink. I'm perplexed. my customer is pretty pissed off to, but understanding of how weird this is. the ge people India don't know what is going on and my street pressure is spot on at 60 to 80

  18. Does anyone know if a bad inlet valve could cause the water to shoot in too powerfully at the beginning of the fill? My door has a leak at the lower right hand side, which is opposite the fill valve. It looks as though the water shoots straight across at a high velocity right at the corner of the door opposite. I have already changed the door gasket so I do not think that is the issue. Thanks for any help.

  19. Right you are. I removed the fill valve and powered it with 115 V ac. I could barely force air through it. I removed the screen and forced the valve with a pointy tool. Surprisingly it works. I hope to get a new valve monday. Our propane dryer also had a valve that failed to open enough.

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