Jeep Wrangler KC HiLiTES 4 in. LZR Round LED Light – Driving Beam Review & Install

Hey what’s up, guys? Ryan here from ExtremeTerrain, and today I’m
here with the KC HiLiTES 4-inch LZR Round LED lights with driving beam. This is for those of you that are looking
for a high-powered high-quality light that is small enough that you can stuff it anywhere,
but, of course, powerful enough that it’s going to provide plenty of light for any of
your nighttime adventures. Now these are coming in right around $140
per light, which at first glance seems like it is a pretty steep price. However, honestly, you get exactly what you
pay for. These things are incredibly well made. They’re by a very trusted name in the business. KC has been making lights for a very long
time and these are, honestly, a very high-quality light that is going to last you a long time. Now, of course, there are more affordable
options on the website as far as these aftermarket lights go, but, of course, they’re not going
to be made with the same quality and craftsmanship as some of these higher quality lights, such
as these ones from KC. Now to back these lights up and sweeten the
pot even more, these bad boys come with a 23-year warranty against any internal damage
or issues that you may have with them in the long run, overall making these a very good
option to go with if you have those available funds. They are sold individually, so if you’re looking
for a pair, of course, you’ll need to buy two of those and you will need to source a
harness as well. We offer many harnesses on our website and
you can find those readily available for you to purchase. The next thing you will need is a mount to
mount these on. As you can see, we have an aftermarket bumper
and this bolt directly onto those light tabs on the over-rider hoop. And like I said, these are very easy to install
and wire up, so I am going to give them a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty
meter as you should be able to get this installed in under an hour. And you can do all of this just using hand
tools that you have rolling around in your toolbox. Now, as we all know, our Jeep’s factory headlights
and fog lights are, honestly, not that powerful to begin with. So most people turn to aftermarket LED headlights
and fog lights, which are great upgrades as well. But if you’re looking for some serious high-powered
aftermarket lighting, you’ll want to look to these aftermarket lights. Now there’s all different types of lights
out there. Some are going to provide spot beams. Some are going to provide driving beams. Now spot beams are going to be a direct concentrated
light and driving beams are going to give you a nice 90 degree and they’re going to
light up a ton of surface area in front of you. Now these lights utilize six Cree XP-G LEDs
and they’re very bright. They produce a bright white light at 5,000
Kelvin, plenty of light that you would need to guide your way through a trail or anything
that you would need at nighttime. Now, as a whole, you’re going to get 2,400
lumens out of this light and 24 watts. Each little led is rated at four watts and
there’s six total equating to 24 watts. Now some of the issues with aftermarket lights,
and those cheaper options is going to be the durability and longevity of the light. These lights are very well made. They’re very sealed up which is going to make
them completely dust, dirt and waterproof. Anything that you can throw at them they’re
going to handle. It’s not going to affect the internal. Some of those more affordable options, those
cheaper options, they can create condensation, they can collect condensation underneath the
lens that’s going to burn out those LEDs and then that light is going to be rendered useless. Now along with this light’s amazing warranty,
these LEDs are rated for an incredibly long time. They have a lifespan of 50,000 hours, which
is going to provide you plenty of light for years to come. And one of the interesting things about this
light that you don’t get with other options is it’s onboard thermal management system. So, as a whole, the housing design and that
internal circuitry is designed to reduce heat and realize when it is getting hot that it’s
going to cool itself down, it’s going to shut off and it’s going to keep itself from damaging
those internals. Now the housing is made from die-cast aluminum,
which is going to be very corrosion resistant. It is coated in a black powder coating, which
is going to give you that tone down, aggressive look. It’s also going to provide plenty of corrosion
protection for that aluminum housing. Now the lens is a polycarbonate lens that’s
going to provide plenty of protection for any debris, stones, rocks. Whatever you get kicked up, it’s not going
to crack this lens and it’s going to protect the internals as well. Now one of the issues that we run into with
running aftermarket lighting on our Wranglers is the legality in some states. Some states will require you to cover up those
lights and KC provides a cover with a little lens so you can put over this thing and that’s
going to seal up that whole thing, cover it up, and that way you are unable to use your
light while you’re driving it around. So, as a whole, if you do have the funds available
to spend on a high-quality light, you’re looking for something that’s going to last you an
incredibly long time, has a great warranty, is incredibly well made then I think that
this option is a great option to go with and a great option for you out there. So, with that being said, let’s show you how
to get these installed, wired up, and what they look like on the Jeep. Tools that we use for this install: 17-millimeter
wrench, 10-millimeter socket, a socket extension, quarter-inch drive ratchet. Now with these lights, you are just getting
the light and you’re getting a pigtail. You will need a harness, which we offer KC
harnesses on our website and also you’re going to need something to mount it to. Now we have a bumper here with some light
tabs. If you have an aftermarket bumper, a bull
bar, or if you have some brackets to mount them on the windshield, of course, you need
to acquire those first. What we’re going to do we’re going to mount
these directly to our bumper. So these are going to come with hardware on
the bottom. All we’re going to do is just take this nut
off, we’ll pull the lock washer and the washer off, set it through here and then on the bottom
we’ll just put that hardware back on. After you get the nut on, you’re going to
take a 17-millimeter wrench or socket, whatever you have and we’re going to tighten that up. Now these lights don’t come with a harness,
but I do have a harness here. What I’m going to do, I’m going to show you
exactly how to wire these up, connect them to your battery, run the switch inside just
so you can see exactly what these lights look like when they’re on. So we’re going to start over here underneath
the hood. We’re on the passenger side where our battery
is. First thing that we’re going to do, we’re
going to pass this harness down through our engine bay so we can come around the grille
to our lights. So you want to pick a good spot and, honestly,
it would be a good idea if you took this air cleaner out. This is relatively easy to do. You’re going to use a flathead screwdriver
to loosen this band clamp out then this whole assembly is going to pull up and out. You’re going to get a huge open area that
you can just drop this harness down through that way you can just kind of focus on zip-tying
it out of the way. It’s not going to contact any hot or moving
parts. So we’re going to plug the ends of our wiring
harness and we’re going to go and pass this down. So you want to pick a good spot. There are not many very good spots, but there’s
usually a good spot right here behind the air cleaner and next to the radiator. So you can drop that down. We’ll go underneath. We’ll grab that. So after that, you want to come around out
from under the grille then we can plug our light in. So the next thing you’re going to do, you’re
going to run your wiring harness for your switch across the engine bay, and we need
to go through the firewall. Now if you don’t have a manual transmission,
if you have a vehicle with an automatic transmission, right down here next to your brake booster
and in between your fender, you’re going to have a rubber plug in the firewall. So you can either remove that plug or you
can poke a hole and pass your harness through there. Now if you do have a stick shift like we do,
you will not have that available spot to go through. So the next best spot, of course, besides
drilling a hole through the firewall, is going to be right here. You can see these wires right here. They’re running through the firewall here
and there’s actually a little gap in between a couple pieces of sheet metal and this is
filled with foam, so what you’re going to need to do, you actually need a poke that
foam out and you can use a fish. So you can take a piece of metal rod or anything,
poke that all the way through. You can tape this to that and that way you
can pull those wires through. So what we’re going to do right now, we’re
actually going to pass these wires through the firewall then we’ll go on the inside. So now that we’re on the inside, you can see
that we have this panel removed. This panel comes off very easily, all you
do is just put a flat head screwdriver in here, pry that out. After you get that out, you’re going to see
this little hole where you can shove some wire through. So this is going to be filled with foam. You can see we have the wire coming out here. Now after you get this out, the next thing
you’re going to have to do if you are using the KC wiring harness and switch, they give
you this little switch right here. So you’ll need to find a spot on your dash,
where you want, and drill a three-quarter inch hole. After you do that, you can pass the wire through
the hole and then you can wire this up to your switch. This switch and wiring goes on the back of
the KC little switch, this little rocker guy. You’re going to have a bronze terminal and
then two other terminals. Now the bronze is going to be your ground
or your earth, so that’s going to go to the black wire on your harness. The middle one is going to be the blue wire. Now, of course, this may vary depending on
what harness you’re using. If you’re going with an external switch or
something along those lines. So black is going to be the bronze, blue is
going to be the middle, and then the white is going to be the power. So this is going to be your supply. The blue is the load. White one is going to go on this last terminal
right here. So if you don’t want to drill a hole in your
dash, you can always go with a different rocker switch, maybe one that’s A-pillar mounted
or a mounted somewhere else in the vehicle. But if you are using this type of switch,
you will need to drill three-quarter inch hole in your dash. And then once you pass the wires through,
you hook this up, you just push it into place and it’s just going to lock it right into
your dash. One of the last things that you’ll need to
do is wire it up to the battery. So, most likely, you are going to have a black
wire and a red wire on yours. As you can see, this one is yellow, but, regardless,
in most cases, the black wire is going to be the ground. So I would check with the instructions. However, we are going to wire this up. So you have your black cable, which is the
negative side of your battery. So we’re going to go black to black and we’re
going to do the yellow, which is our power supply to the red side of our battery, which
is the positive. So you don’t want to take these nuts off here. This is actually what holds this terminal
to the post on the battery. You want to do one of these accessory nuts. So we’re going to crack this one free with
a 10-millimeter socket. Now while you’re doing this, you want to make
sure that you do not ground the tool that you’re using. So while you’re doing this you want to make
sure that you do not ground your tool. You also want to make sure that your negative
terminal right here, your negative wire for your switch is not touching anything that’s
metal either. After you get it back on, we’ll just tighten
this nut up and then we can connect to the negative side of the switch. All right, guys. So I showed you how to get these lights mounted
on your Jeep. I showed you how to wire them up. And, one of the last things that you need
to do, you need to take a couple of zip ties and just zip-tie all of that excess wiring
out of the way away from any hot or moving parts. However, that is going to wrap it up for my
review and install. For more videos and products like this, keep
it right here at

5 thoughts on “Jeep Wrangler KC HiLiTES 4 in. LZR Round LED Light – Driving Beam Review & Install

  1. Shop These KC LED Lights:

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  2. Nice vid and nice Jeep. I hate to immediately go off topic, but can you tell me what kind fenders are on there, as well as the black fog lights and the blacked out Jeep logo on the grille?

  3. So there's a Ryan Huck and a Ryan Houck? That's must be confusing lol

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