LIGHT SWITCH & Electrical WIRING GUIDE for Fishpond (Part 2)

And we’re back
coming in hot from Part 1 to continue this complicated but rather
interesting DIY project. The initial challenge was to hide this extension
wire that powers our fish pond’s filtration pump but the scope kinda
crept a bit farther since I also had to do something about this Christmas
strobe light that wasn’t mounted properly and didn’t have its own switch.
To make matters worse, I also discovered that the old bulb adapter where
everything connects to may be faulty. Yes, Part 1 involved a lot of prep work:
from disconnecting stuff, to cleaning the work area, to restoring the strobe light,
to wiring a switch, then mounting that switch, and to cutting and sticking the
first three pieces of our PVC molding which will serve as our wiring cover. So
are you ready to jump back in? Whoa, hang on a sec. This is a sequel to Part 1 so a
lot of stuff here will be referencing that video. If you got here from Part 1,
then you’re all set; otherwise, I really encourage you to watch Part 1 first. I
put a link in the description below. You’re good? Okay… let’s go! Hey there, this
is HanDIYman 007 (double-oh-seven) and if we’re just meeting for the first
time, HELLO! And my passion is building, fixing and improving all sorts of stuff
at home for my family and sharing with you what I have learned from experience
and from others. So right after sticking the first 3 pieces of PVC moulding below, we now stick this fourth and longest piece, which we will
position about two inches to the right of our light switch. The idea is to
create an offset between this piece and the switch. Otherwise, it will be hard for
us to insert the switch wires later on. After ensuring that it is straight and
aligns with the bottom pieces, we tap all across to press the adhesive more
firmly to the wall. Tap with your fingers back and forth to ensure everything is
even, especially with textured walls like this. And this is how they should all line up.
What’s great about PVC moldings is that they are easy to paint over — usually with
a color matching the surface where they are on. But that’s for another video… because we first have to do something
about our faulty lightbulb adapter which is causing our light bulb to flicker. To
save on time, I just decided to buy a replacement from Handyman and no, I am in
no way sponsored by them. So out with the old and in with the new. Also, remember in
Part 1 where I explained why the adapter’s short chain is an issue?
Well, we solve it now by connecting this long chain that was a leftover from a
ceiling fan installation I did a few weeks back. With two pairs of pliers,
I simply bent the last link open, hooked the chains together and bent them back
close. Before moving forward, I also want to test both the old bulb and the
receptacle to make sure that nothing else is faulty. And as I can see, they are
both performing just fine. Ok, so let’s remove the bulb, insert the
adapter in a clockwise direction, then reinsert the bulb. Then let’s do one final test. Perfect! Now
let’s stick this fifth and final PVC molding onto the support beam. In retrospect, I should have mounted it at the back of the support beam to hide it
better. Oh well, it’s no big deal once I paint it
over…probably in another video. By the way, if you’re curious what I used as a
handle for the adapter chain… I used this: a MEAT HOOK. But because it’s
a bit too thick for the chain, I used a zip tie to join them together. You
wouldn’t have noticed if I haven’t told you, right? Now, let’s stick on our
extension outlet right below this PVC molding. Good. Now let’s go back to our
Christmas strobe light. I have to cut its power cord HERE, so I can connect two
wires later: one reaching the bulb adapter and the other, reaching the light
switch that we installed back in Part 1. Okay, let’s bring it down again. So I make a cut right here — bringing out
our wiring diagram from Part 1 — we have already installed our light switch. So
that already has a GREEN THUMBS UP. We now turn our attention to Wire C where
we prep our plug. So after cutting off the power plug, we have two wires inside
that we need to expose and strip. Then we add this new wire to either one
of these two. Keep in mind that all we’re doing here is extending the length of
the power cable. We twist them tightly together…making sure we have a snug
connection. Then we wrap the exposed wires with electrical tape. What I also like to
do is press the tape with a long nose pliers to flatten and bind it more on
the wires. Later I will connect this back to the strobe light. Now let’s do the
prep work for Wire B at the strobe light side. Likewise, we expose the two wires
from within the main insulation and strip them. Off camera, I will also add a
new extended wire to one of these. No need for you to watch it since it’s
exactly the same procedure as the power plug. All we’re doing is extending the
length of the wire. So let’s go ahead and mount the strobe back and flip the long
wire over to the light switch area. Now let’s strip the switch wire and grab the
wire that we just flipped and twist the two together. Of course, let’s wrap with
electrical tape…making sure that there is absolutely no exposed wire left
uncovered. Let’s quickly press with pliers and
we’re done. Back to our diagram, we have now completed
mounting the strobe light and connecting it to the switch with Wire B. Next, we
focus on Wire C. Let’s cut the wire on the switch side. Now just a quick review
where we are so far. From the strobe light we have mounted, we have cut its
power cable and exposed the two wires inside. At this crossroad, one wire we have
extended and connected back to the strobe’s original plug. Again, all we did
here was make the wire long enough to reach the bulb adapter, where we will
plug in later. This other wire leads down where we have connected it to the light
switch below. So with that, we are done connecting Wire C and the last step is
connecting the switch and the second wire of the plug with Wire A. To this
wire I’m going to connect a new wire long enough to slither up this beam and
all the way to the strobe light plug. And what I am holding here is the wire I
have connected to the switch below off-camera. Right now I’m just stretching
it across and measuring where I should cut it. Ideally it should be the same length
as the other wire already connected to the plug. Good. So we make the cut.Then
we strip it. Then we also strip the second wire of the
plug. And twist together the two. As always we wrap around electrical tape,
making sure everything is covered. And finally to complete our wiring
circuit, we plug in to the adapter’s outlet. And just to check our wiring
diagram one last time… yep Wire A connected. And “plug to bulb adapter” done. Let’s do a quick test before we move on to the next phase. Okay
that’s enough — it works. I don’t want to show you too much because I’m saving the
light show for later when it’s dark. I did promise in Part 1, I’ll give you
Christmas in June at the end, right? So now let’s turn our attention to the
extension outlet for our fishpond’s filtration pump. I need to disconnect it
now but since we’ve stuck the PVC mouldings way early in the game, I am
confident that the adhesive we used in Part 1 has fully cured and I need not
worry about the moldings falling off. This step is pretty much straightforward:
remove the PVC cover, slide in the cable and replace the cover. The only thing we
have to make sure of is that the covers are firmly hugging the molding grooves
on the side. However, I want to insert the switch
wirings in this section. So I have to cut the molding here to
create a small gap later. So we saw…and sand…continue lining up the extension cable
inside and covering it. This topmost section of the molding is the
trickiest part because the goal here is to fit all the wirings inside: the switch
wires and extension cable. Factoring in the size of the small gap I want to
leave for the switch wires, I need to cut a PVC molding cover whose length is
flushed with the top edge. And here’s the outcome. I have inserted the two wires of
the switch through that small gap in the molding. I wasn’t able to anticipate the
thickness of all the wires combined and with two wrapped with electrical tape.
And so I had to place one taped wire outside the molding to compensate. For
our extension outlet wiring diagram it is pretty straightforward: we simply need
to extend the wire lengths so that it’s plug reaches the bulb adapter. To do
that, we insert Wires A and B…in between. Just to show you quickly how I managed
the wires coming out of the PVC moldings — with zip ties! Oh and here’s the extra
molding I told you about in Part 1 and I used it as a holder for the wires so
they don’t fall off the sides of the support beam. So here we are on the last
leg of our journey where we have to make this plug reach that bulb adapter over
there. We begin by cutting off the plug and
setting it aside for now. Then we expose the two wires coming out
of the PVC molding. Strip them. Twist them. And connect longer wires for each. Then
we tape as usual. Then I bind them together with more zip ties. Down here below, I take the cut plug and
prep it for connection to those two long red wires we just added. And back here on
top, I simply connect the two wires of the plug to these matching two wires.
Again using the same wire connecting steps we have done throughout this video.
Notice also that I have already hidden all the wirings inside the PVC molding. At last, we can now permanently plug in
both our Christmas strobe light and filter pump extension outlet. Then we clean up
with a couple of zip ties. And with that, our extension outlet
circuit is also officially complete. Here’s how everything looks like from
back here. Yes fishies, it’s done. But there’s one
last thing to do. Do you want to see how everything comes together? Here we go! I admit that there were things I could
have done differently or even better but I think we have a much better view than
before. I’m quite happy how everything turned
out. You didn’t think I forgot my promise to
give you a Christmas in June, did you? Here we go! This is HanDIYman 007 (double-oh-seven). Thanks
so much for watching all the way to the end of this two-part video. And here’s
wishing you all a Merry Christmas… in June.

17 thoughts on “LIGHT SWITCH & Electrical WIRING GUIDE for Fishpond (Part 2)

  1. Ang ganda ng mga gold fish. Nuodin ko din ung part 1. Daming matutunan dito sa channel nyo sir. Ang aga ng pasko, ang ganda! Sna po eh matulungan nyo din ako umangat.

  2. Boss thanks a lot for this video. I was planning to have thois project for a long time. It's gonna be very helpful for me to start .

  3. Paka usefull nito para sa mga bahay bahay …plus the boses na clear helpful tlaga

  4. thanks for the tips and tutorial you have a great pace friend..

  5. wow it's a good tips.thanks for sharing new friend here let's get connected

  6. Really cool channel…God knows I need help around the house…new to the party 🎉

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