The Science of Waves | Tsunami/Tidal Waves | Earth Science


What causes waves? Well, it really depends on – OH HI!! Not that kind of wave. I’m talking about water waves. But it’s good to remember there are many
kinds of waves. There are sound waves which are caused by
oscillations in the air. There are light waves, which are carried by
speedy photons. And there are water waves which you find in
bodies of water like the ocean. These are the waves we’ll talk about today. The regular waves you find at the beach are
caused by the wind. This might seem strange since the waves keep
coming, even if it’s a calm day. But these waves are made by more than the
wind right here; they’re made by the wind blowing across the entire ocean. And the ocean is huge! If you were able to walk on water, it would
take you about 76 days to walk from Los Angeles to Tokyo. So even if the wind is not blowing here at
the coast, you can be sure it’s blowing somewhere across the vast ocean. The blowing wind scrapes across the surface
of the water giving it a bit of a push. The energy from this push is passed along
to the water. There are different factors which determine
how much energy is passed from the wind to the water. Is it a strong wind or a weak wind? Is the wind isolated or spread out over a
large area? And how long does the wind blow? All of these things play a role in just how
much energy is pushed into the water. This means even when the weather is perfectly
calm at the beach, you might see giant waves if there’s a storm out at sea. There are other waves which are more rare
and destructive ‒ tsunamis… Tsunamis are not made by the wind. They’re made by a massive displacement of
water. For example, when you get in a bathtub, you
displace a lot of water and make waves. You are making teeny tiny tub tsunamis! It takes a massive event to displace enough
water to cause such a gigantic wave in the ocean. One possibility is an earthquake. For example, the Boxing Day tsunami which
struck southeast Asia in 2004 was caused by an earthquake which measured 9.1 on the Richter
Scale. At the bottom of the ocean, two tectonic plates
slipped. A 1600 kilometer section of the ocean floor
shifted up about 15 meters. This lifted the water above it triggering
the wave. A similar catastrophe struck Japan in 2011
when a 9.0 earthquake occurred offshore. And while tsunamis are destructive and terrifying,
luckily they are rare. Another way to displace massive amounts of
water is by dropping a huge object in a body of water. You may have seen this when someone cannonballs
into a swimming pool. The result is a series of large waves which
can be awesome or annoying, depending on your point of view. Something similar caused the tallest recorded
wave – a megatsunami in Alaska. In 1958 a large earthquake caused a landslide
into Lituya Bay. The megasplash caused a wave over 500 meters
tall! Surfs up? Dude, I don’t think so… In addition to earthquakes and landslides,
there’s another source of tsunamis… Space! Outer space is teeming with large rocks. Occasionally an asteroid will find itself
on a collision course with Earth. And since over 70% of Earth is covered by
water, the odds are high it will land in the ocean. When it does, depending on its size and speed
it can displace a HUGE amount of water and cause a massive tsunami. So the next time you’re at the ocean, take
a moment to think about all the different ways that waves are created. There are the peaceful waves created by the
ocean breezes. The tsunamis created by earthquakes… Or massive landslides… Or asteroids plunging towards earth with a
terrifying momentum! {sigh} I used to be able to relax at the ocean. The ocean is filled with countless fish, and
not one of them has subscribed to our channel. This is your chance to show the fish what
they’re missing! Subscribe today, and show the marine life
why we’re the top of the food chain.

63 thoughts on “The Science of Waves | Tsunami/Tidal Waves | Earth Science

  1. Hey everyone!! We are re-releasing our "What causes Waves" video. It got lost somehow in the YouTube copyright process, and YouTube asked us to re-upload it. Here it is!! We had a lot of fun out at the beach making this video! 🙂 Hope you enjoy it if you haven't seen it before!

  2. A very well constructed video with greatly informative and easily understandable explanations. You guys deserve more views

  3. Is it possible small, minute earthquakes cause tsunamis that are pretty much indistinguishable from regular ocean waves?

  4. Nice!, thought-provoking video. I'd like to see one about Black Holes. Seems like a lot of theory and logic, but it doesn't really seem to be based on anything. Perhaps that emperor has no clothes?

  5. Poxa, esperando pelo Socrática Português voltar :/. O cenário no YouTube brasileiro do cunho que o canal se propunha, melhorou e está a melhorar mais ainda. Basta ver o Space Today do Sérgio, é um exemplo. Nunca pedi nada, volta lá, na moralzinha ?

  6. Ah, e a sua dicção está de uma verdadeira americana hahaha, meu inglês tem melhorado, e esses vídeos tem ajudado na minha dicção. Thank you and congratulations!!

  7. Thanks for answering this question. I have entertained this question but was to lazy to google how waves occur. I always assumed moon's gravity had to do something with this. Lol ?

  8. Great videos. You left out explaining the difference between a Tsunami and your everyday Tidal wave, my favorite wave. I often go to the beach here in Everett, WA. at the change of the tide just to see the tidal waves.

  9. Both interesting, and very very nicely filmed/presented (was the subtle soft-glow effect intentional? looks good here!).

    You deserve far more subscribers.

    If I may make a suggestion, perhaps having channel content that's a bit more focused on STEM would help? (Don't take that the wrong way, it's just a general observation of how "big" channels operate). For example, while processing CSV files in Python is tremendously useful (even to me personally), it does look a bit out of place.

    If we suppose that students (and educators, who will in turn show your content to their students) are a primary audience, then even grammar topics are fine along with the "hard science" stuff, but maybe Python programming is too advanced/niche. Or, since splitting into multiple channels is probably too much at this point, perhaps some sort of tagging? Perhaps somehow specifically "marketing" the channel to educators? Just a few incoherent thoughts on my part, I hope I don't sound like an ass. I only know that if I was homeschooling a kid I'd consider your content a godsend, partly due to its diversity, and definitely due to the presentation and quality!

  10. Top of food chain, ask a great white shark about that. We're gonna need a bigger boat.

  11. Exactly the same video from Socratica but in Portuguese, featured by Liliana de Castro in her native language two years ago. Funny.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECyHjz6uM_o

  12. It's too hard to resist watching.The host is just way too pretty girl.

  13. Sound waves: Oscillations in the air;
    Light Waves: Can we call, oscillations of Photons?
    If so,
    Water Waves: Oscillations of water molecules?:)

  14. I'm waiting on your video, in regards to the newly discovered planets 🙂

  15. un might miss the movement of the moon with the residual inertia. i beleive that energy will be stored and restored after few hours… i find ur math video much more pertinent. stick with it.

  16. While I did like the video I do believe it is a misconception that an asteroid could cause a tsunami. Tsunamis happen when there are large scale shifts of mass in the seabed which can be caused by what you said, earthquakes or land slides. The shifts these events cause may produce a large scale column like movement in the water that would carry over vast distances. An asteroid would make large close range waves that quickly disperse but it would also cause a splash that could reach potentially 400 meters high, which is pretty cool. It should basically have the same affects as dropping a heavy object in a pond or some other body of water but on a much smaller scale.

  17. Geography: Ha!! I just created a HUGE tsunami wave with an earthquake!!

    Space: Hold my beer.

  18. I’m late to this one. By like over a year. What is tattooed on your arm?

  19. ¿Hizo una broma en inglés que se entiende en español?

  20. Oh,how I would love to see Liliana wearing a bikini at the beach.

  21. Also our lonely moon(Luna) makes tides and wave because of the gravitational pull of the moon makes the Ocean/Sea/Water pulled on its gravity. If the moon is approaches to the closest approach to earth there a 100% chances of high tides and also big waves on the beach.

    I hope this helps sorry for the grammar.

  22. Mmmmmm wind and displacement are very small factors. The Moon and sun play major roles

  23. It's nice to have a pretty lady explaining things like these to us. The cool thing is that she likes to do this.

  24. Let's all agree that we all came for Liliana de Castro.

    good actress by the way. really liked her acting

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